The Next Level

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
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rnevius

 
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The Next Level

by rnevius » Tue Dec 28, 2010 5:59 am

I've been asking around lately to find out how everyone got into winter hiking/mountaineering. As an avid backpacker, skier and endurance junkie my whole life, winter after winter I find myself craving backcountry skiing and hiking. Pictures of snowy summits just gets my heart racing. Problem is...I've never done it anywhere other than small, low elevation climbs in my hometown. I've broken out the snowshoes and crampons, taught myself basic self-arrest with an ice ax, and skied chest-deep powder, but I've never had the privilege of backpacking, skiing, and experiencing the winter sierras (other than skiing mammoth I suppose). I've thru-hiked the JMT faster than most, explore as much of the Sierras that I possibly can every year, boulder often, and think about the mountains daily. I have the will and the fitness, I just can't find the group of people willing to teach a newbie. I'm young, only 21 years old, and it seems most people my age around me are not even remotely interested or experienced. How did those of you who do it get into winter trekking? Was it later on in life? Did you take mountaineering courses or did you fall into some experienced friends? Any recommendations to a newbie for a thirst for some winter excitement?

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: The Next Level

by ExcitableBoy » Tue Dec 28, 2010 1:47 pm

I never took any courses other than first aid and avalanche safety. I met a guy in school with similar experience (very little) and ambitions and we taught each other to climb. We both had Freedom of the Hills which we read cover to cover and started out going to the crags and mountains practicing what we read. Once I had a little experience I started climbing with other climbers who were willing to mentor me. I had a bit of an advantage, both my undergraduate and graduate schools had very active climbing communities so it was relatively easy to find partners.

Perhaps you could take and introductory climbing class at the local climbing gym, that way you will know how to belay and tie knots so you can at least offer to be a belay slave to someone in exchange for mentoring.

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Alasdair

 
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Re: The Next Level

by Alasdair » Wed Dec 29, 2010 4:06 am

I see a lot of folks in your situation, and I have to say that if you really want to jump to the next level and do it quick hire a guide and learn that way. Full disclosure: Im a guide. I have seen people who match your description go from where you are to guides within a year or two because they took a bunch of mountaineering courses and then climbed a lot. There are two ways to REALLY get to the next level.

One: If you want to learn to rock climb, quit everything move to the Valley, bum food from the cafe, and bum partners from camp 4. This works and will be a hell of a lot of fun. If you want to learn to climb in the mountains climb in the north cascades. Finding partners here is a bitch though.

Two: Take a comprehensive mountaineering course from any of the AMGA certified guiding companies. This is a lot of fun also, and you can have faith that you will learn from people who know what they are doing. American Alpine institute has a month long course that I have taught that takes people from your level to leading technical rock routes in the Bugaboos, North Cascades or climbing Mt. Waddington. Its not cheap, but you will get all the experience you need.

Three: Find an experienced partner willing to take you out. This is how I learned, and it was slow and painful. It defiantly works. I did need to relearn a few things that were clearly wrong that I picked up along the way, but thats life.

There are plenty of other companies that teach great courses also. There are also individual private AMGA guides who have the same thing. I also believe NOLES has a semester course that is good. Also expensive.
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Joe White

 
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Re: The Next Level

by Joe White » Wed Dec 29, 2010 5:46 am

Good thoughts here from Alasdair. For me....it was option three.

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rnevius

 
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Re: The Next Level

by rnevius » Wed Dec 29, 2010 7:08 am

Hiring a guide has always really sounded like the best idea, but for an already money hungry college student, that's a bit of an issue. Hell, the gear is hard enough to come by! But great, helpful, sound advice. thank you all! Keep it coming!

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Alasdair

 
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Re: The Next Level

by Alasdair » Wed Dec 29, 2010 4:56 pm

Not going to be in Red Rocks this spring. Got a little one due the end of march. Heading to Bolivia in June for a month, and then back to the cascades for the late summer.
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Kiefer

 
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Re: The Next Level

by Kiefer » Wed Dec 29, 2010 4:58 pm

I did things by simply going out and doing it. Plain & simple.

Made some mistakes along the way, nothing life-threatening but on every trip, I usually learned something or
took notice how something worked or didn't work. I made and continue to make many adjustments when
'winterneering' and now, I always stick to a routine that works for me depending on the seriousness and
particulars of the trip.

Most of the time early on, I ventured out solo and learned on my own. I didn't pick up regular partners until only a few years ago.
However, I will say, books are a valuable resource. And I'm NOT just talking about 'how to' books or guidebooks. Non-fictional books about
others' mountainous exploits are filled with useful and great beta...plus they're usually a great read in and of themselves!
I have a virtual library here at the house.

I'm JUST NOW taking mountaineering courses to fill in the little gaps and to hammer out the things I do know. And maybe next year, decide to get
certified. We'll see.

Important thing though, I believe 'winterneering' should be taken in steps. Use progression. Mistakes and accidents come winter time
are no where as near forgiving as in summer
.

There's just somethng about being outside in the winter, on the blanket of snow with cold temps threatening you and every detail that's normally benign in the summer,
scheming against you in winter. It just feels more pure, more real...distilling the knowledge you've acquired up to that point and relying on the foundations of that knowledge.
Maybe it's witnessing sights that most people won't.
Perhaps, it's taking a certain amount of pride (quiet certitude) in yourself that you have 'what it takes' to venture forth
and endure the hardships for those few moments of white beauty.
Maybe it's just a satisfaction of trying to equalize the advantages of your clothing & gear with that of Mother Nature and walking away successful.

Shit, maybe I've been drinking too much...
But the views are certainly worth it! :D

Image

Hey, Fletch...Welcome to Colorado, my man! 8)
Just noticed you over at 14ers.com

The following user would like to thank Kiefer for this post
rnevius


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