You're not a real monkey?....

Minimally moderated forum for climbing related hearsay, misinformation, and lies.
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Re: You're not a real monkey?....

by ShortTimer » Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:33 pm

I've done the hard aid thing. When Charles Cole first started aid climbing I was his regular partner. He built about 20 rurps in his dad's shop and I would set rurp lines. Of course I weighed about 115 at the time and Charles weighed about 205 and when he stood on the first piece they would just about all pull. He hated me for that!

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Re: You're not a real monkey?....

by ksolem » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:01 pm

Claude I think you mean West Face. West Butt definitely counts as an El Cap route: VI 5.9 A# or 5.13b.

I got suckered into getting on it once with a couple wankers, they recruited me to do some mandatory free pitches up there. After a couple days of them getting nowhere on some nailing gig I took my cords and flew the coop.

About 10 years ago I did Mescalito with Rob, the OP. Here's a shot I got of him on The Bismark ledge, high on the wall.

I really thoroughly enjoy aid climbing. There's an art there but you have to immerse yourself in it and commit to find it.

C'mon Jan, how about some hard hooking?

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Re: You're not a real monkey?....

by fatdad » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:25 pm

Well, since I've done it, I like to count the West Face as "route". I understand the reasons for including it in a separate category though. Still, when you stand at the bottom of the thing and look up and know you're going to climb it in a day, it seems like a big deal when you're on it. Totally different vibe than, say, the Shield or some other big aid route.

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Re: You're not a real monkey?....

by CClaude » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:29 pm

Personally, I'm too ADD (or is it now called ADHD) for hard aid. A guy I knew (who was pretty talented at aid climbing and a decent free climber) once asked if I wanted to do Scorched Earth. While it sounded interesting, I'm just too ADHD to spend 8+/- hours belaying/climbing a pitch. I'd rather use the time to work the moves out on a pitch to free it on a long hard route. bTotally respect the people with the talent, cajones and drive to do routes like that

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Re: You're not a real rockclimber....

by Sierra Ledge Rat » Thu Jan 06, 2011 5:11 am

phydeux wrote:. . . until you've been able to stay w-a-y beyond the 14 day camping limit in a national park/national monument that's a well-known rock climbing mecca without getting caught and kicked out. (me: 21 days in Joshua Tree Natl Monument back in 1992 :D ).

me: Stayed in Yosemite Camp 4 for 3 months in 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982.... Okay. Maybe I was also sleeping up in the talus field, or in my car.

You ain't shit until you've stayed in a climbing area so long that you start eating out of the garbage dumpsters....

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Re: You're not a real monkey?....

by mvs » Thu Jan 06, 2011 5:28 am

You know what would help with the marathon 8 hour belays? Audio books on an iPod. :)


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