I just got back from a trip to Ecuador. While what I saw and did was amazing, it wasn't even close to what I set out to do. I slowed down everyone I climbed with. As I slowed to a snail pace and was sucking as much thin as fast as I could, people said it was because I was inexperienced. While I am definitely inexperienced, the only cure for that is experience. Maybe it is only because I am inexperienced, but I don't think more knowledge can replace oxygen. A few observations:
1) I am a lot stronger than I needed to be. I lifted weights, did chin ups, and carried a heavy pack up and down hills before this trip. That part of my training did not help at all. What good is lifting 300lbs at sea level if your own legs are too heavy at altitude?
2) While anyone can always be in better cardiovascular shape, I run marathons, and some of the climbers running circles around me at altitude don't even work out.
3) I know other people coming from sea level climbed Cotopaxi (5,897m) after 1 week in Quito (2,800m) without any other acclimation. I acclimated for 10 days, including climbing Rucu (4,698m), 2 nights sleeping at Tambopaxi (3500m) and 2 days on Cotopaxi around 5000m. I did not suffer the nausea and headaches from altitude that some of the other faster climbers did, I just slowed down.
4) More willpower will not help much. Willpower means I would not give up as easily, and maybe move a little faster. I may have gotten farther, but I still would move too slowly to get to the top safely.
5) We did nothing technical, so better skill in this area wouldn't help much.
I want to be able to do this. I will put myself through whatever mental or physical training I need. But I can't spend more time at altitude or take longer trips to get better acclimated, at least not until my job situation changes in a few years. Do I have to give up any high altitude trips until then? Any advice on how I can be a better climber?