Mount Jackson, Glacier National Park

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Northern Rockies. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Northern Rockies Climbing Partners section.
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Mount Jackson, Glacier National Park

by distressbark » Tue Aug 09, 2011 1:13 am

Wondering if anyone knows of any successful summit bids so far this summer. I'm hoping to climb Jackson on Saturday, but I'm afraid of encountering dangerous snow conditions near the summit. Would hate to spend several hours working towards the top just to turn around!!! Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Dottie Little Tent

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Re: Mount Jackson, Glacier National Park

by Dottie Little Tent » Tue Aug 09, 2011 3:52 am

I have never climbed Mt Jackson. I have made it to the saddle at the top of the glacier. On 7/30 I had a killer view of the area from the Peigan/Pollock saddle and I was amazed at how much snow was in that area. It looked like the meadows which I remember as clear and berry ( and Grizzly ) filled were now 90% snow covered. I did follow the ridge up Jackson with my binocs and having never climbed it I am not really an authority, but it APPEARED to me that near the summit one would have to skirt the ridge for at least a few hundred feet where the ridge appears to really get steep and narrow. In that spot there was solid snow and I actually mentioned to my partner that it looked steep and icy.

I will try to attach some photos to the MT Jackson page right now and you can check them out yourself

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Re: Mount Jackson, Glacier National Park

by EarMountain » Tue Aug 09, 2011 3:48 pm

Dottie Little Tent is correct. The Northeast Ridge Routes on Jackson do indeed make an ascending traverse on the right (north) side of the ridge up there where the ridge is narrow. That traverse is first across a steep gully, then on little scree covered chutes that angle upward, and finally by climbing back up to the ridge. If these areas are still snow covered most folks put the climb off for another day. Dottie Little Tent's photos should prove enlightening.

The 1/4 mile of avalanche debris below Gunsight Lake had a route through or around it flagged recently but it is still a pain getting through there. Also there is no bridge over the outlet stream from Gunsight Lake so a wade is required.
Ear Mountain Photography.
Text and photos Copyright 2007-2012.

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