Help me with my goals...

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
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Vitaliy M.

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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:52 pm

Hotoven wrote:Wait I'm confused, how did Mt. Hell Sunflower not make it on your list? Surely that should be your final goal in all this?

I think you are one of the few brave people here whose real climbing list includes this magnificent peak : )

to OP..Include Khan Tengri to your list. Supposedly it was Bukareev's favorite mountain, and it rivals Ama Dablam with it's beauty. I hope to make it out there one day.

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Re: Help me with my goals...

by OPHIRTODD » Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:30 pm

Maybe look at it from a time away point of view, as you're looking at three very different time commitments:

G2- almost 2 months away from home
Logan, St Elias, Ama Dablam- 3-4 weeks away
Vinson- 2.5 weeks unless flights get weather delayed

I'd agree with Damien- if you had a good experience on the West Buttress, Vinson will probably feel similar. The work days are close in duration, with the "new" route to high camp being a pretty good day, similar to moving to 17.2 on the Buttress. One big difference is that down in Antarctica, you really need to take charge of your personal well being, whether you're with a guide or not down there. It can be (but not always is) significantly colder overall than on Denali, and you really need to be deliberate with your self-maintenance.

I'm not sure why someone would suggest an alpine ice course before letting you join them on Vinson, unless they just wanted to get another trip out of you. I also don't see it so much as a "lateral move." Antarctica is one of the most amazing places I've ever had the opportunity to visit. It has a tangible feeling of being "out there- waaaay out there!" That difference alone would stop it from being a lateral move. in my opinion.

I'll not take up the guided/non-guided debate, as I'm biased. Good on you for doing your research and trying to get some adventure in before the kiddos come (my best adventure to date, personally). Have fun with the process!

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Vitaliy M.

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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:18 pm

Good to hear that he does. I am not sure I can keep up with you, if you have done Sunflower, but if you are in CA let me know, would be happy to try! : )

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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Palisades79 » Sat Aug 13, 2011 3:30 pm

Those are grand goals but why don't you consider peaks that are less crowded and the challenge of first ascents ? I was a lot older than you when I first climbed frozen waterfalls, himalayan peaks ,big walls ,etc.

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Re: Help me with my goals...

by radson » Sun Aug 14, 2011 10:18 am

Howdy Fletch, I of course will try and answer any specific questions you may have. IN the meantime. Here are 2 sites that may help at least with some Questions on AD, Guided and Unguided. Also Phil's site has some great pics and info on his 2009 bid to have a crack at GI/II.

Also to get a general feel for the relative difficulties of these peaks, have a peek at Jagged Globes Wesbite. They have a rundown of the relative difficulty and endurance required for each mountain.


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