Bolting or not bolting?

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Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by dan2see » Mon Apr 09, 2012 4:12 pm

We have a lot of sport crags in the mountains, and most are bolted. But sometimes a cliff has plenty of cracks, and the developer has specified the routes as trad. Over the years, folks have respected this. They still install bolted anchors, however, for safety.

But a more problematic issue is the amount of traffic. The more folks climb a route, the sooner you'll see an accident, and safety becomes a numbers game. So a really popular crag should be bolted, while on a less-climbed route, it's your choice.

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Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by Guyzo » Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:29 pm

So your going to add bolts to climbs?

Why don't you just donate a rack of hexes and stoppers to the locals?

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Dow Williams, Marcsoltan

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Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by butitsadryheat » Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:59 pm

They can always move to Belgium for awhile and have the government give them the gear, then return to their homes in Bulgaria :wink:
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Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by MoapaPk » Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:39 pm

Routes that are used heavily and have no cracks can benefit from a bolt or two.

Isn't bolting a pain in the ass? Any place a bolt is likely to be needed, you will have to hang from a rope and drill in an area that prevents easy application of normal force. It seems hard to set bolts with confidence ... I'm always reading about new bolts that turn freely in their drilled sockets.

Can you just sling a stainless steel cable over a chockstone?

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Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by Marcsoltan » Thu Apr 12, 2012 10:36 pm

butitsadryheat wrote:They can always move to Belgium for awhile and have the government give them the gear, then return to their homes in Bulgaria :wink:

What!?!? The Belgian government gives away climbing gear????

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Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by Andrew Rankine » Thu Apr 12, 2012 11:43 pm

Could you put in fixed pro like stoppers and hexes and have them not be taken? That was people could climb it without damaging rock by bolting.

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Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by Scott » Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:03 am

All routes can be done on trad and have been opened on trad. Though I am thinking about bolting it all ...

It would be an act of extreme vandalism.

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Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by Jukka Ahonen » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:41 am

twoshuzz wrote:Leave it alone. If people wish to climb, they'll find a means to grab some gear just as you have.

Guyzo lives !!!

I think this is pretty simplistic approach. It is easy to make such calls when coming from a country where disposable income is commonplace, and poverty means having just XBOX and no PS3. (Excuse my exaggeration here, just to make a point).

Here's my two cents:

I have some extended family in Bulgaria (hope to visit the country some day soon!) and I understand what OP means when he says they do not have the money.

None the less, I think even in this situation you should respect the ethics of the sport. If you know the people who have done the first ascents, I would advise you to have a chat with them - how would they personally feel about you bolting their route. I would assume you will find that at least some of them agree with your reasoning. Then select a few routes per grade, if possible, and bolt those.

In the long term, once a route is bolted, you can't really go back on that. So be careful, try not to bolt too many routes.


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