Crack too wide for gear

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MoapaPk

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by MoapaPk » Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:16 pm

Note that PW has very little on his harness, is wearing long pants (hefty long pants), and is hauling his stuff. The knee pads are a bit flip, but some folks put thin pads under their pants or just bandage their knees before.

We can't see into the upper crack, so maybe it has flaring nasty walls and is not too deep at top. The bottom looks easy. Geez, I hope the pics in your TR will not be all fisheye views! Is that a chockstone blocking the top? That could be your biggest problem, but also the easiest place to put protection.

As a non-climber, my biggest mistake is getting caught up on pack/gear in a chimney.

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Dow Williams

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by Dow Williams » Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:55 pm

You sure you do not have your grades mixed up on the conversion??? based on the photo, that exit would not be labeled anywhere close to 5.11c in the states.

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desainme

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by desainme » Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:56 pm

Did you put in a 2" by 4" piece of fir or did you make a chock out of Quercus Robur?

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Fletch

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by Fletch » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:38 pm

Just toprope it.

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Hotoven

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by Hotoven » Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:37 pm

I would say just top rope it. If its a lot of fun, then consider leading it, but some climbs just are not worth the risk.
"Hey, careful, man, there's a beverage here!"
- The Dude, Lebowski

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Dow Williams

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by Dow Williams » Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:26 pm

sjarelkwint wrote:believe me ...


hope you are not too offended that I don't...hardly ever...

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Guyzo

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by Guyzo » Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:40 pm

Bolt it if it needs pro.

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Dow Williams

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by Dow Williams » Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:10 pm

You are so full of it, but for what it is worth, you do entertain me mate.

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Dow Williams

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by Dow Williams » Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:47 pm

you are just so hard core dude....not sure you need a partner for the nose....(which was going to be a bit hard to come by, so it all works out in the end)

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Andrew Rankine

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by Andrew Rankine » Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:43 pm

MoapaPk wrote:40cm? Is it consistent in width? I'm not a climber, but I've seen other non-climbers chimney up 16" cracks with parallel walls, no gear. Tough if you hit a constriction, or have a wide chest.

The only pic I could find right away (tougher when it is dead vertical):
Image


Where is this? I was in the McDowells in Phoenix, AZ awhile back and this looks pretty similar.

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MoapaPk

 
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

by MoapaPk » Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:33 pm

rankinesoccer wrote:Where is this? I was in the McDowells in Phoenix, AZ awhile back and this looks pretty similar.


Just a random granite pinnacle on the way to Gold Cross Peak, NV. Unfortunately, the highpoint of the peak is just a rounded lump.

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