I'm going to Washington in August to give Rainier a try. We will be getting to Washington on Saturday and attempting Rainier on Wednesday. We are planning a longish hike for Sunday with a small "walk" on Monday and Tuesday as a rest day. We are coming from NY and we will be staying in the North Cascades on Sunday and Monday night. How high should we go on Sunday to help us acclimatize for Rainier? I know a few days isn't going to do much.

A few of the hikes we looked at are between 6500-8600 feet. Should we be aiming higher- Something towards 10,000 feet? We are looking at cascade pass to sahale peak/arm, which gets up to 8680 ft. Any advice on what we should be aiming for?

As I was reading your post, Cascade Pass jumped into my mind. My $0.02: Do a two day climb with a high bivi. You acclimitize more while hiking/climbing, but still gain some acclimitization while sleeping. East Ridge of Eldorado Peak (8,800 ft), has a pretty high bivi (~7,800 ft) at the base of the East Ridge. Views are incredible and the knife edge snow arete/summit is unusual for the Cascades.

Eldorado can also be done in a long day, however, I have a colleague who did it CTC over 40 years ago and still has painful memories of dehydration, seeing pink elephants, and a difficult time fording the raging Cascade River. (An excellent tree now tames the crossing.) Eldorado is less technical than Sahale Peak which requires some rock climbing at the top, although Eldo requires a bit more elevation gain and has a longer, more complex approach. Of course Forbidden is awesome, but the easiest route is not really that easy. Steep snow approach and blocky 5.6 climbing for ~ 8+ pitches.

Also, if you have a flight that arrives early enough on Saturday and logistics work out, I suggest you try to start your climb on Saturday and be finished no later than very early Monday. Prior acclimitization is great, but is not a substitute on Rainier for excellent physical conditioning, and you NEED adequate rest between doing a moderately high summit and Rainier. The thing about the Cascades that is different than Colorado or California is the approaches start very low, and are often complex and strenous.

If you can't rest most, if not all, of Monday and all of Tuesday, I would suggest setting your sights fairly low. Hike around at Washington Pass to Blue Lake or from Artist's Point to Camp Kiser, both of which are fairly high, very scenic, and not very strenous. Colchuck Lake, although not terribly high, is supremely beautiful and is a relatively easy hike, although about 11 miles RT.

When you start talking about higher mountains, you need to look at Stuart, Shuksan, and Mt Baker, all of which are a step up in technical difficulty from Eldorado or Sahale, except for the Cascadian Couloir route on Stuart which in August is an unpleasant slog. For many climbers these are full two day climbs. You are better off doing easy hikes at lower altitude than gaining a lot of elevation IF you can't get enough rest. Also, on your rest days, drink a lot of water or electrolyte replacement fluids.

Was looking a Eldorado peak and noticed their is glacier travel. I forgot to mention Rainier is our first trip on a glacier and we are going guided with IMG. So, our Sunday climb won't involve any glacier travel. Any other recommendations?

mambwe wrote:Was looking a Eldorado peak and noticed their is glacier travel. I forgot to mention Rainier is our first trip on a glacier and we are going guided with IMG. So, our Sunday climb won't involve any glacier travel. Any other recommendations?

You can't get terribly high in the Cascades without stepping on a glacier. Hike around at Washington Pass - Blue Lake/Blue Lake Peak, hike from Artist's Point to Camp Kiser or hike to Lake Ann, hike to Colchuck Lake. Cascade Couloir on Stuart is glacier free, would get you to 9,400', but would be a pretty strenous day trip, and not that easy of a two day trip with no great high bivis, although you could stratch something out high up. From the same trail head Ingall's Lake is a great hike with amazing views of Mt Stuart.

Thanks for the advice. I must say the pictures of the knife edge on Eldorado Peak look intense. Especially the ones where it looks like one big cornice. That would definitely get the blood pumping! One day I have to try that.

I think my next trip out west should be a dedicated glacier skills course, so I can learn all of the rescue skills needed. Only problem is that those skills won't be used in NY and who knows if I will remember everything when I get back to a glacier on my own.

mambwe wrote:Thanks for the advice. I must say the pictures of the knife edge on Eldorado Peak look intense. Especially the ones where it looks like one big cornice. That would definitely get the blood pumping! One day I have to try that.

I think my next trip out west should be a dedicated glacier skills course, so I can learn all of the rescue skills needed. Only problem is that those skills won't be used in NY and who knows if I will remember everything when I get back to a glacier on my own.

I don't recommend glacier travel without prior instruction, and I almost always insist on roping for glaciers, however, the glacier on Eldorado is so mellow I never rope up for it. Not to say that is safe, but it is as tame a glacier as we have in the North Cascades. The knife edge is more cool and unique than scary.

mambwe wrote:I think my next trip out west should be a dedicated glacier skills course, so I can learn all of the rescue skills needed. Only problem is that those skills won't be used in NY and who knows if I will remember everything when I get back to a glacier on my own.

If you ever want to climb in the PNW, Canadian Rockies, Alaska, South America, or Asia, you will have to know glacier travel skills. I personally don't think you need a course. Buy a book, Andy Selters, Glacier Travel book is one of the best. http://www.amazon.com/Glacier-Travel-Crevasse-Rescue-Routefinding/dp/0898866588/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335807509&sr=8-1. Buy the gear and practice setting anchors, hauling systems, as well honing self arrest and crampon work. You don't need a glacier to practice, just a snow slope. Prusik a rope hanging from a tree while wearing a 35 lb backpack. You can even practice Z and Z x C hauling systems in your back yard by pounding pickets into your lawn and dragging something heavy to simulate a fallen partner. (Selter's book explains how to do all this stuff). Of course, you will be exposed to this in your Rainier trip. I would recommend getting the book and practicing everything BEFORE the trip.

ExcitableBoy wrote: Buy a book, Andy Selters, Glacier Travel book is one of the best.

Funny you recommended that book because I was looking at it today at my local REI. Of course, I have Freedom if the Hills and have gone through it. I would love to hit one big mountain like Denali before I am 40. I have 9 years left to meet that goal.

mambwe wrote:

ExcitableBoy wrote: Buy a book, Andy Selters, Glacier Travel book is one of the best.

Funny you recommended that book because I was looking at it today at my local REI. Of course, I have Freedom if the Hills and have gone through it. I would love to hit one big mountain like Denali before I am 40. I have 9 years left to meet that goal.

Totally doable. You just have to make it happen. I have a partner who grew up on the east coast and graduated from SUNY, Platsburgh. He climbed in the 'Daks, Whites, Chappel Pond, the Gunks, Seneca Rocks, etc. He said guys could lead solid 5.10 at the Gunks and NEI 5, but if you went west and climbed Rainier, you were regarded as big time. I laughed because climbing 5.6 at the Gunks takes far more technical skill (and balls) than climbing most routes on Rainier. Its just the endurance, altitude, and glaciers that make it intimidating. Get your cardio really strong, do LSD, high intensity cardio (intervals), lift weights, hike the local hills with a 40 lb pack at a fast past etc. Study and practice (get creative) the glacier skills and you will do fine.