hgrapid wrote:Diggler,

Isn't there a difference between typical mountain danger, and highly dangerous? So, if I said I wanted to do Mount Langley in late August, it is certainly dangerous. However, probably nowhere near as dangerous as Starlight or the Palisades at that time, or Williamson in June?

My belief is that there is always risk; however, it is foolish to climb way above your skill level. Thus, I am inquiring as to whether mountains such as Sill, Tyndall, and Split are reasonable for someone who has only climbed Longs Peak via a class 3 route. I hiked Whitney last summer and it was pretty easy skill-level wise. Simply an endurance hike. But, Split Mountain, Tyndall, and Sill are totally different endeavors.

So my question is: Which mountain would you recommend of the three to a moderately-skilled hiker. Which is the least difficult?

Langley isn't any more dangerous than Whitney via its standard route, & it's beautiful near the Cottonwood Lakes. Split Mountain has one of the worst approaches you're likely to do, but the typical camping spot near Red (?) Lake is amazing; from there it's a longish scramble up loose talus to the saddle, then easy from there. Don't know how Tyndall is as rock- did it under snow, w/ crampons & axe- fun, steepest sections maybe 50 degrees or so. Sill via the standard way (L-shaped couloir) is considerably harder than the others mentioned; taking the 2nd class way (I've heard- haven't done it) is waaaaayyyy longer, with some challenging route-finding.

Good luck- hope this helps!

hgrapid wrote:...Split Mountain, Tyndall, and Sill are totally different endeavors.

So my question is: Which mountain would you recommend of the three to a moderately-skilled hiker. Which is the least difficult?

That's easy ~ Split. Then Tyndall, then Sill.

cp0915 wrote:That's easy ~ Split. Then Tyndall, then Sill.

Yes, totally concur.

hgrapid wrote:Split seems very dangerous, and there is no word on the summitpost site how dangerous the final few hundred yards to the summit are. They seem really nasty!

There's no word because there's nothing to it. The last 1,500ft up the north face is just a boulder climb - class 2. Where did you hear it was dangerous?

Gary Schenk wrote:

Bob Burd wrote:

cp0915 wrote:That's easy ~ Split. Then Tyndall, then Sill.

Yes, totally concur.

hgrapid wrote:Split seems very dangerous, and there is no word on the summitpost site how dangerous the final few hundred yards to the summit are. They seem really nasty!

There's no word because there's nothing to it. The last 1,500ft up the north face is just a boulder climb - class 2. Where did you hear it was dangerous?

It will bore you to death!

That's why you go in winter and splitboard/ski it

tyler4588 wrote:Matterhorn Peak from Twin Lakes requires glacier travel skills, ice axe and crampons. You may want to take that into consideration before leading a hiking group up.

You don't always have to cross a glacier to get to Matterhorn Peak from Twin Lakes. It just depends.

While you need to know how to know how to walk on hard snow/ice with your crampons to do Matterhorn Peak, I think saying you need "glacier travel skills" is blowing it a bit out of proportion- it's not exactly Mt. Rainier. The biggest threat those crevasses pose is maybe getting your foot stuck in one & twisting an ankle.

Gary Schenk wrote:

Bob Burd wrote:

cp0915 wrote:That's easy ~ Split. Then Tyndall, then Sill.

Yes, totally concur.

hgrapid wrote:Split seems very dangerous, and there is no word on the summitpost site how dangerous the final few hundred yards to the summit are. They seem really nasty!

There's no word because there's nothing to it. The last 1,500ft up the north face is just a boulder climb - class 2. Where did you hear it was dangerous?

It will bore you to death!

+ 1

hgrapid wrote:We will do Matterhorn in August when most snow has melted. The trip leader has done the route up the glacier before, but didn't get to the top. So, at least he has experience up the route. Believe me, safety is top priority.

I think Langley is the only 14er I am willing to do. I have some easier 13ers planned.

My Ol Buddy and I did Matterhorn in August.....no snow that I can remember.....it sucked though.....climbing through the sandy slog on the southeast slope. JMHO

I would do it with some snow pack next time; maybe early June.

Ooohh, seems I was just thinking of my personal experience. Haha, I can see how "glacier travel" would be a bit exaggerated. My bad! Great peak to do!

I am preparing to climb Split Mountain on July 21. Just how bad is the descent? Very loose? Very dangerous? Or pretty reasonable in daylight?

It has been awhile since I was climbed Split mountain but the scramble above Red Lake is basically just a bunch of talus. There is no real climbing to speak of. I think the talus is relatively stable and safe. There is not any exposure. I thought the hike to Red Lake in the heat and dust was the worst part.

hgrapid wrote:I am preparing to climb Split Mountain on July 21. Just how bad is the descent? Very loose? Very dangerous? Or pretty reasonable in daylight?

Hgrapid,

Assuming you'll be following the popular, standard North Slope route from Red's Lake I'd like to share two notes of caution.

First, on the section from the Split/Prater saddle until you gain the North Slope, you'll be making a gradual ascent along a ridge, crossing above some chutes. This section is very loose talus and small boulders. Use appropriate caution here as it would be easy to trigger a rock slide that could drag you down.

Second, you'll emerge from the ridge onto the North Slope, where you'll turn left (east) and head toward the summit. The North Slope is a broad, vast inclinded plane and this part is very straight forward as far as route finding on the way up. But, turn around, look back and make note of where you'll need to enter this chute on the way back down it would be easy to miss when headed down. Three people in my group thought they were really making good time on the descent only to find that they'd gone too far down and had to climb back up a few hundred feet to enter the correct descent chute.

Taboose looks interesting. There is really a trail all the way to the PCT? Seems like at least 29-30 mile round trip climb though?

hgrapid, I did the Taboose Pass-John Muir Trail route to Split Mountain in 2005. It was a leisurely five day trip. I'd highly recommend it if you have the time.