Howdy,
I am doing a climb with Exum on the Grand Teton and am looking for suggestions on a good climbing shoe. Exum has told me that I need an approach shoe?
Never having used an approach shoe, I need some advice. I have a foot somewhat on the narrow side. I have been looking at the La Sportiva Boulder, but would like to get some input first before I buy.

Thanks,
Tim

LS Boulders are a great shoe, and if they fit your feet you're set. I loved mine and found I could climb nearly as well in them as my rock shoes, albeit at the expense of hiking comfort and support. Perhaps the newer ones are a bit different.

I appreciate the input, EB.
The Boulder is one of the shoes Exum recommends. LS has always fit me well, so I may give those a whirl.

I've climbed a few peaks in my 5.10 Exums and I'm pretty happy with them. One thing; they don't go on, or come off easy, but they do have good rubber, high tops, and kinda water resistant..

I also have had a pair of 5.10 exum guides for few years now. I have used them for everything from long backpacking trips to short 5.6 routes and have found them to be great.

I climbed the Grand last summer with Exum. I ended up buying the Ganda Guides that they recommended and I think they are fine albeit a little expensive for what you get. Also, when I spoke with the guides, a lot of them did not really like the sole on the Ganda Guides as the rubber is not as sticky as some other soles- in fact, I think several guides had their boots resoled with a stickier rubber. Anyway, they got me up the Owens Spalding just fine. Also, keep in mind that they rent approach shoes if you don't want to buy them

I don't know exactly how they'd perform on that route but I feel like my Scarpa Charmoz climb significantly better and are far more comfortable than my 5.10 Camp Fours. Obviously a mountaineering boot is limited in what it can climb but I would feel confident on routes around 5.6ish with a mountaineering boot.

The Camp Fours have good rubber but it's impossible to get the sizing right on them to be competent at climbing. They're either comfortable on the approach and worthless at climbing or murderously tight and decent at climbing.

No, the Grand does not need rock shoes. If you like carrying extra weight, bring them. Otherwise tennis shoes and baby gaitors to keep the snow out work great. Depending when you go, may want light crampons.

I am assuming you are doing the regular route that is.

Wastral wrote:No, the Grand does not need rock shoes. If you like carrying extra weight, bring them. Otherwise tennis shoes and baby gaitors to keep the snow out work great. Depending when you go, may want light crampons.

I am assuming you are doing the regular route that is.

When I climbed the full Exum on the Grand, on my first trip to the Tetons, 'approach shoes' really had not been invented or at least become popular. I think LS had the Mariacher which is something close. We wore our lightest mountaineering boots (1/2 shank, one piece leather), and changed into rock rock shoes. Times change, some times even for the better. Many routes on the Grand are ideal for the approach shoes and would be my choice. Many good models to choose from. La Sportiva and 5.10 seem to have the best rubber.

Hi Tim,

Good luck finding the right shoe!

For what it's worth, I climbed the Owen Spaulding route as a beginner in full-shank, deep-lugged leather waffle-stompers and made it just fine. I'm not sure which route you are attempting, but if it's the OS Route...shoot, you could climb it in soccer cleats.

Have fun!!!

Sarah Simon wrote:Hi Tim,

Good luck finding the right shoe!

For what it's worth, I climbed the Owen Spaulding route as a beginner in full-shank, deep-lugged leather waffle-stompers and made it just fine. I'm not sure which route you are attempting, but if it's the OS Route...shoot, you could climb it in soccer cleats.

Have fun!!!

Sarah, I *think* we will be climbing the OS? Glad to hear it isn't too technical. I am new at this stuff and can only top rope a 5.8 or so on a good day!


To the rest: thank you for your input and I think I am going to try a pair of the LS Boulders.

Update:
Bought the Boulders a few weeks ago, and have been scrambling/hiking with them several times since.
A very comfortable shoe, and the rubber is quite sticky, in fact, doesn't seem much less so than my 5.10 rock shoes. Only problem is that I have already torn a small hole in the side of the shoe, but some superglue fixed that right up.

Thanks to all for the help!