Crampon Systems

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Andrew Rankine

 
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Crampon Systems

by Andrew Rankine » Fri Oct 19, 2012 11:53 pm

I am looking for a crampon system to use with my Salewa Ravens (48) and La Sportiva Baturas (47). Next year I'm going to try to climb all the European Country Highpoints, so I have been thinking about my crampon system. Mostly I'll be doing snow/glacier travel, but I'm hoping to do some technical ice as well. I am trying to get the lightest weight, most versatile crampon system because I'll have to lug it all around Europe. Here are my questions:
1. I have looked at the Petzl Lynx, so I can go with semi auto or clip. Are they too stiff to be comfortable with these boots? It would be nice to only need one pair, rather than having to mismatch heel and forefoots.
2. Is there any point using a semi auto crampon with the Baturas on Elbrus and Mont Blanc?

Thanks.

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gcap

 
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Re: Crampon Systems

by gcap » Sat Oct 20, 2012 1:42 am

Andrew - The Lynx are certainly the most versatile crampon out there. They would work well on both your Salewa's and Baturas. They're not necessarily light, but a good compromise. Lighter and cheaper would be the Petzl Sarkens with a strap front binding, which travel glacier/snow and climb technical ice very well. You'll need to order a long linking bar for either due to your foot size. Get the orange asymmetrical bar if you get the Sarkens (they'll fit your boot much better).
As far as using Batura's on Elbrus or Mont Blanc - all depends on the temperature. You may need a double boot on Elberus particularly. Crampon choice depends on your route, but the above mentioned crampons would be fine.
Good luck!

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Andrew Rankine

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Andrew Rankine

 
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Re: Crampon Systems

by Andrew Rankine » Sat Oct 20, 2012 3:38 pm

gcap wrote:Andrew - The Lynx are certainly the most versatile crampon out there. They would work well on both your Salewa's and Baturas. They're not necessarily light, but a good compromise. Lighter and cheaper would be the Petzl Sarkens with a strap front binding, which travel glacier/snow and climb technical ice very well. You'll need to order a long linking bar for either due to your foot size. Get the orange asymmetrical bar if you get the Sarkens (they'll fit your boot much better).
As far as using Batura's on Elbrus or Mont Blanc - all depends on the temperature. You may need a double boot on Elberus particularly. Crampon choice depends on your route, but the above mentioned crampons would be fine.
Good luck!


While I am concerned with warmth on Elbrus, my question is about whether wearing a clip crampon will be uncomfortable there. The Baturas are stiff, but the fit of the clip is not really necessary for that peak (though it is easier to put on), so will I feel much difference in comfort between the clip and new-matic designs wearing these boots?

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Re: Crampon Systems

by Dane1 » Sun Oct 21, 2012 6:29 am

"Salewa Ravens (48) and La Sportiva Baturas (47)"

I also have both boots. For what you want to use them for and certainly up to the task, and a bit more, on your projects. I've used these. But certainly not the only choice. But the Petzl basket system seems to work on my Ravens better than the Grivel (2nd best) or BD version. I like the Vasak on both boots mainly because it still allows you to take real advantake of the lwt Raven. The Batura has a stiff enough sole to keep the Vasak climbing well even on some pretty steep technical ice.

The Vasak Leverlock
Image

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Nitrox

 
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Re: Crampon Systems

by Nitrox » Sun Oct 21, 2012 6:50 pm

Sarkens are an answer to a question that was never asked. Vasaks are a more traditional crampon and work great. If money is no object then Lynx would be cool but you have to keep track of extra parts and if you loose them you could be in trouble. I like to keep things simple so I'd probably opt for the Vasaks given your objective.

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Re: Crampon Systems

by Andrew Rankine » Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:20 pm

Ok, thanks for the ideas guys. What about mismatching crampons, like Vasak or Sarken leverlock full crampon, and buying a different clip front part for more technical stuff?

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Dane1

 
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Re: Crampon Systems

by Dane1 » Sun Oct 21, 2012 10:18 pm

Couple of thoughts for your Andrew. The Raven is a very lwt boot by comparison. I like to use aluminum crampons with them when I can. If not I use the Vasak.

I have used the Lynx a good bit. But I like the Vasak betterr on the Raven. And I like the Dart/Dartwin better my rigid soled boots liek the Batura.

Your suggestion is spot on with mix and matching crampon bits I think. You could buy the Vasak with the basket front and rear clip on heel for the Raven and then just buy a Dart or Dartwin front piece and swap them out for harder technical climbing in the Batura. Brillian is my though. Best of both worlds.

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Re: Crampon Systems

by Andrew Rankine » Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:34 am

Dane1 wrote:Couple of thoughts for your Andrew. The Raven is a very lwt boot by comparison. I like to use aluminum crampons with them when I can. If not I use the Vasak.

I have used the Lynx a good bit. But I like the Vasak betterr on the Raven. And I like the Dart/Dartwin better my rigid soled boots liek the Batura.

Your suggestion is spot on with mix and matching crampon bits I think. You could buy the Vasak with the basket front and rear clip on heel for the Raven and then just buy a Dart or Dartwin front piece and swap them out for harder technical climbing in the Batura. Brillian is my though. Best of both worlds.


I have been considering another boot for the trip, the Ravens are not incredibly durable so far. I wore out the sole on a pair from March to August (but they are pretty comfy--24 miles in a day with them and no problems). I have been considering the LS Makalu or Karakorum or Glacier...or possibly the Scarpa Wrangell GTX. But anyway, I like the idea of mismatching, though once I buy Vasaks ($173) and add the Dart front ($105) the Lynx might be cheaper. So many choices! Thanks

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Re: Crampon Systems

by Nitrox » Mon Oct 22, 2012 1:35 am

Here is a sale on a set Vasaks.

http://www.karstsports.com/pevalecr.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=41892591961&utm_content=pla&gclid=CPeUsMmwk7MCFcN_QgoddEEAHA

I bought mine used for $65 so if you are patient you can find a set for less money.


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