Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

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clmbr

 
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Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by clmbr » Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:42 pm

A huge amount of snow is predicted over the next several days for upper Mt Shasta, perhaps a world record. I wonder what the avalanche hazard would be after that dump and for how long.

http://www.b.weather.com/news/weather-w ... e-20121129

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mrchad9

 
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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by mrchad9 » Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:46 pm

There will be avalanches all over. Just walk on the path of the most recent slide and you should be safe no?

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by clmbr » Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:52 pm

mrchad9 wrote:There will be avalanches all over. Just walk on the path of the most recent slide and you should be safe no?

Sure, I’ll do that. Would skis or snowshoes help to stay on top if a slide takes off? Thanks

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by mrchad9 » Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:06 pm

No just jump over it of course.

I may go next weekend to practice!

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by clmbr » Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:27 pm

mrchad9 wrote:No just jump over it of course.

I may go next weekend to practice!

That I can definitely do. I have a lot of experience in jumping over, so I don’t have to practice anymore.

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by clmbr » Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:44 pm

Steve1215 wrote:it woud be good time to practice getting cov ered by huge avalanche and digging your self out, or practice jumping head first into some crevasses

I don’t think that would be feasible in a solo scenario, so maybe someone would team up with me and dig me out. However, we will use no rope or avalanche beacon or even a shovel to make it more challenging and accidental.

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Edgewood

 
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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by Edgewood » Fri Nov 30, 2012 7:55 pm

What do you mean, leave no word? Dude you need a phone to update your status on Facebook. Sheesh....

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by colinr » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:38 pm

Let's queue up some songs for those holed up in the snow with smartphones, as well as for those indoors hiding from the wind and rain. First, a somber tune; hopefully nobody will share the fate of Dan and the man this weekend:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ushuiTscrpk[/youtube]

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by clmbr » Fri Nov 30, 2012 10:17 pm

Steve1215 wrote:. . . its also important to not check in with the rangers first, and leave no word with anybody about where you are going
-
Actually there are two benefits from not registering my climb: 1) no one would bother me if I’m overdue, and 2) I don’t have to pay the climbing fee. However, not telling anyone where I’m going may trig a 911 alarm if overdue. I’ll tell them I’m going for vacation to Europe.

Steve1215 wrote:avalanche airbag "float" system
This is a great idea too. It may even prevent from falling in a narrow crevasse. I’ll take a couple of self-inflating party-balloons instead, cheaper solution.

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by clmbr » Fri Nov 30, 2012 10:21 pm

telewoman wrote:Current Conditions~
http://mountshastaguide.com/blog/

Have a great weekend! 8)

I like your blog but can’t see this time anything on the pics. How can I judge the conditions and snow amount?

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by lcarreau » Sat Dec 01, 2012 12:10 am

SeanReedy wrote:"Let's queue up some songs for those holed up in the snow with smartphones ..."


Smartphones ? Wow, is that a word now? ........ WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' SMARTPHONES :!:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGcVhoHdRFo[/youtube]
"Turkey Vultures always vomit when they get nervous."

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by clmbr » Sat Dec 01, 2012 12:22 am

Steve1215 wrote:-

--an Alaskan trick for crossing crevasse fields solo...


what you do is you carry an 18ft lightweight aluminum ladder...strapped to your body.....wear it over yer head, resting on yer shoulders at the midpoint, perpendicular to yer belly button...


if you fall into a crevasse solo the sturdy ladder should span the crevasse and save you...now you just figure a way to clamber out


this is for real

-

I think I heard about this long time ago. But practicability is an issue. When I started traversing glaciers solo I thought about some kind of protection but with passing time while my experience and confidence were growing the thoughts just faded out.

After my last crevasse experience, however, I may be wearing harness and have a couple of ice screws (and a picket for snow) easily accessible around my chest. That would have helped a lot in reducing the risk of falling deeper and lowering the stress while getting out the last time.

I still have a few ideas about some devices that might save someone from falling completely in a crevasse or help getting out once in it (as long as alive). There are situations the ice axes or ice tools may just not work no matter how strong and skilled someone is (I’ve practiced various scenarios). Therefore, the best strategy, of which I’m an advocate (sh. happens anyway), is NO FALL policy.

And the same is with avalanches… …avoiding them.

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by Snowslogger » Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:57 am

Crazy I know, but I hear some people crossing crevassed glaciers actually go with partners.

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by clmbr » Sat Dec 01, 2012 3:19 am

Snowslogger wrote:Crazy I know, but I hear some people crossing crevassed glaciers actually go with partners.

That’s true, even roped to each other; I’ve seen it.

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Re: Attempting Mt Shasta over the next few days???

by colinr » Sat Dec 01, 2012 3:36 am

lcarreau wrote:
SeanReedy wrote:"Let's queue up some songs for those holed up in the snow with smartphones ..."


Smartphones ? Wow, is that a word now? ........ WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' SMARTPHONES :!:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGcVhoHdRFo[/youtube]


Hey, no sweat off my back worrying about what others enjoy. Adventure is fun, as well as fun to imagine, but I will admit that being all wet (or frozen) gets old after awhile in my book. Suffocating isn't any fun either, but some variations may appear better than others. Maybe you prefer this type of blizzard :!: :?:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trtqy4G1THw[/youtube]

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