Hello from chilly Minnesota,

It looks like I will be coming out in mid February for a few days and I wanted to get a good route in while I am there. I know this might sound like a pipe dream but here is what I was dreaming about last night when thinking about this trip:

Class 3 up to sections of YDS 5.6 / wi2/3
Lower summit the better (coming from sea level)
Shorter approach the better (less than 3 miles? <hope>)
Would like to camp out one night
Limited avalanche danger
First Ascent (or just first winter ascent)
Just kidding about that last one

Examples: Mt. Conness - West ridge (sounds like winter road access is an issue)

If you were in San Francisco, were willing to drive about 8 hours, and had 3 days to climb something beautiful, what would you do?

I have done Liberty Ridge in winter conditions (April 4-9) and ice/rock climb in Minnesota. I always tell people we can take the skills we learn in Minnesota to the mountains, so time to put that into practice again.

Any suggestions are welcome. I'll keep pouring over pages on Summmitpost but I always prefer referrals. Plus, I figure you guys and gals know California well enough

I'd suggest something in the Tahoe area, perhaps in Desolation Wilderness. You could spend a night on Aloha Lake and there are nice summits around there - Pyramid, Agassiz, Jacks, Rubicon, Tallac. Only some class 3 among those, but beautiful in the winter time. Relatively short approach from Twin Bridges or even Echo Lake (fee required). Avalanche danger is not usually a serious problem, but of course this will depend on recent snowfall. The elevations are all under 10,000ft.

If you want a more serious rock/ice/climbing adventure, you'll have to play/watch the weather a lot more closely, which can prove frustrating if you have only a limited window. Mt. Shasta is the obvious one that comes to mind if you're in SF, but others have taken on most of the Sierra East Side summits at one time or another in winter.

I hope to get up Shasta this February. Also an overnight in to Lassen Peak this winter. The other options as mentioned are Tahoe or head somewhere between Bishop and Lone Pine if you really want to dive the full 8 hours.

If you are willing to start very early and end very late on your overnight, you might consider SE or S face of Mount Emerson; the road will be closed but easy hiking past the gate, adding maybe 6 miles RT to the trail head proper.

Higher chance of success might be Basin Mountain (over the town of Bishop) which would give you spectacular views over the White Range and the Sierra.

If you haven't been to CA before, Shasta is definitely a rec

Wow, lots of great suggestions. I will look through these pages. Might be able to convince some people to come with us and just stay at a lodge while we climb...

Shasta just seems to be a bit much with the total elevation gain but I think it is still a viable option.

There are just so many good options in CA! Consider yourself lucky if you get to live in this area- Think of us Midwestern folks every time you step foot into the high places.

Yeow. Winter Sierra ascent from SF? Your options are very limited. You want limited avalanche danger in winter? Then stay home!

Approaches from the west will take days to get into the high country in winter. It's gonna take you 8 or 9 hours just to get over the the east side of the Sierra. Most of the stuff on the east side is going to be 12,000 to 14,000 feet high. Consider ice climbing at Lee Vining?

With limited time, I'd go to Mount Shasta instead, but it's also a high peak.

A nice west side consideration is Alta Peak and environs from Wolverton, open all year. You won't find thrilling class 3-5 climbing, but you have lower altitudes and some pretty spectacular Sierra scenery above tree line.

Really tough criteria. I would suggest East Ridge of Round Top peak or Crescent Moon Couloir on Round Top. Maybe Castle Peak? Supposedly North Face of Maggies peak can form some cool ice at times and be about wi2-4. You can do Eagle Lake peak and choose a route from 4th to 5th class.
Green Butte on Shasta is my favorite route there easily accessible in winter. Hotlum Glacier Headwall is my favorite thus far on the peak.
The drive over to Eastern Sierra is longer than 6 hours in winter, but you can do stuff if you are willing to hike for MORE than 3 miles. East Ridge of Mt. Humphreys (low 5th) was a pretty good climb in winter.

I assume that you do not ski .Why not learn ? Current backcountry ski & camping gear and technique have made Winter peak ski ascents in the Sierra as popular as many Summer rock ascents and the approach and return are a lot more interesting and faster than post-holing and trudging. There are no crowds and waiting in line to get on climbs. There is plenty of new and used ski equipment available. The Canadian Rockies are a great near-by place to visit and take tele and AT lessions.