New, more detailed report:
http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecent ... ral-gully/
by kozman18 » Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:43 pm
by Hotoven » Tue Feb 05, 2013 3:38 am
AlexeyD wrote:divnamite wrote:To be honest, no matter how sustained the climb is, Central is still WI2 at the hardest condition. Other than avalanches and climbing below another party, I don't see there is any problem. In terms of climbing skills, WI2 doesn't require much front pointing unless the ice is bullet proof.
Ah, but I think it does matter, and a lot. Several hundred feet of sustained WI2 means that you have to plan on making ice-only belay anchors, so figure 4 screws (2 per anchor) just for the belays, plus however many you think you'll want for intermediate pro. In addition to the ice, you may be dealing with steep, hard-packed snow for which you may or may not need pickets, depending on whether you think self-arrest will be possible. Will a beginner be able to ask him or herself these types of questions before the climb, and be able to educate themselves properly on the conditions and then answer them accordingly? If the answer is no, then I stand by my original statement that Central is not a beginner-appropriate climb.
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