We are a group of 5 people looking to climb the Avalanche Gulch or any other easy route on May 4th-5th weekend on Shasta. We don't have much technical skills but we are otherwise fit people (one of us have summited Cotopaxi in Ecuador, two others have summited Kilimanjaro) and are comfortable using crampons etc. We'd like to find a good guide for 5 of us that can make our climb safe but we're looking for cheaper options. We will probably bring all of our equipment and tents etc. Can anybody recommend me something?

Thank you!

I am not sure why you are looking for a guide. Doesn't sound like you need one... what are you wanting to get out of them?

Avalanche safety and route finding skills mostly. I tried to go to Mt. Shasta last year using clear creek route with some other friends of mine and we got lost (Yes, we are that bad!). I mean we could see the peak but were never sure which route was the "easy" one. We descended back fine.

Avalanche Gulch will have many other people on the route that weekend. Unless there is a whiteout, you will NOT get lost. Sure!

Avalanches will not be an issue either. Maybe some wet slides on the sides of the ridges, but nothing to be concerned about.

There are occasional guided groups on that route, but by and large that is not the norm. The guides more often do West Face, Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, or more remote things like Hotlum Glacier or Hotlum-Wintun Ridge.

Also, you can likely see other climbers descending when you are at camp, or discuss the route with them. The only part that is any question is deciding exactly where to pass the red banks.

Anyway that is my thought. If you still want a guide, unfortunately I don't have any personal experience with them there, but someone here will chime in.

ajaysomani,
On the link below, scroll down to see climbing guide services that the U.S. Forest Service authorizes to operate on Mt. Shasta.
http://www.thefifthseason.com/climginginfo.html

FWIW,
If you must go guided, the West Face Gully route is probably more interesting, enjoyable (and way less crowded). Have fun!

Hire a guide! You can learn a lot, worry less and enjoy the climb. Check out Shasta Mountain Guides, Chris and Robin are on here often. Enjoy the climb, learn a lot then come back sans guide and do it again. Just my .02

Hiring a guide for Avalanche Gulch/West Face of Mt. Shasta is not needed at all. If you want someone to show you the way though, I know a few people who can help for no more than 200$/person.

Sierra Mountaineering Group does illegal guiding and the USFS seems to be ok with it.

Actually I am surprised they haven't been shut down. But no one seems to stop it.

telewoman wrote:Whiteouts are very common and I've been on the mountain especially the beginning of May. It's very easy to get disoriented on the mountain on any route. There's no trail and route finding and navigation skills are a must. The mountain creates in own weather especially above the Red Banks.

GPS -> Track -> Traceback

telewoman wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote:Hiring a guide for Avalanche Gulch/West Face of Mt. Shasta is not needed at all. If you want someone to show you the way though, I know a few people who can help for no more than 200$/person.

This is called pirate guiding and is illegal!

How many guides that do business on Mt. Shasta are AMGA certified? What makes them qualified to guide on the mountain over other people with same b/s certifications (like Avy 1/2, WFR, leave no trace etc) other than the fact they are employed by a service?

telewoman wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote:Hiring a guide for Avalanche Gulch/West Face of Mt. Shasta is not needed at all. If you want someone to show you the way though, I know a few people who can help for no more than 200$/person.

This is called pirate guiding and is illegal!

I've never hired a guide, but have dealt with Chris at Shasta Mountain Guides and he seemed like a great guy.

Chris
Shasta Mountain Guides
P.O. Box 1543
Mount Shasta, CA 96067
http://www.shastaguides.com
530.926.3117

As far as the pirate guiding, it's only that if you wear an eye patch. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

telewoman wrote:There are only three guide services allowed to guide commercially to the summit of Mt. Shasta. They are Shasta Mountain Guides, Sierra Wilderness Seminars and Alpine Skills International. Some of these guides are AMGA certified and have the other qualifications you mention.That's just how it is. If you would like more information, call the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station and talk to them.

What's your read on the forecast for ascents this weekend? Saturday?

telewoman wrote:

mrchad9 wrote:Sierra Mountaineering Group does illegal guiding and the USFS seems to be ok with it.

Actually I am surprised they haven't been shut down. But no one seems to stop it.

I agree! Unfortunately it's going to take someone getting hurt on Forest Service land before they do anything.

I don't get it. You are saying it is illegal, but Forest Service does not do anything about it, unless someone gets hurt...?

Do I hear $200?

telewoman wrote:There are only three guide services allowed to guide commercially to the summit of Mt. Shasta. They are Shasta Mountain Guides, Sierra Wilderness Seminars and Alpine Skills International. Some of these guides are AMGA certified and have the other qualifications you mention.That's just how it is. If you would like more information, call the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station and talk to them.

so there are others who may actually be more qualified to guide on shasta, they just don't have the right piece of paper?

more importantly, let's assume i hook up with someone who knows the mountain really well. say, perhaps, they even have written up numerous pages on shasta here on sp and have dozens of ascents under their belt. and let's say i have them go along with me on a trip up shasta, and just cuz they're being so nice, i kick in gas money, food money, and even rent a car. i effectively have paid to be guided up the mountain. is it your position that is illegal as well?