WyomingSummits wrote: Did a bunch of 10+ R rated slab routes to the left of the Great Arch that are runout up to 80/100ft and steep enough that if you fall.....um, ya better not fall.

Kahuna wrote:

WyomingSummits wrote: Did a bunch of 10+ R rated slab routes to the left of the Great Arch that are runout up to 80/100ft and steep enough that if you fall.....um, ya better not fall.

Them would be from right to left in order:

Yankee Go Home .10a 1 bolt on each pitch of 110'
Great Brown Way .10c 1 bolt for 130' on each pitch
Great White Way .9+ 3 bolts for two pitches of 110' each
Dixie Crystals .9+ the same as above

etc etc etc


Climbed at both Stone and Looking Glass for over four years straight back in the late 80's early 90's.

I assisted in FAing five routes at Stone.

Kahuna wrote:

WyomingSummits wrote: Did a bunch of 10+ R rated slab routes to the left of the Great Arch that are runout up to 80/100ft and steep enough that if you fall.....um, ya better not fall.

Them would be from right to left in order:

Yankee Go Home .10a 1 bolt on each pitch of 110'
Great Brown Way .10c 1 bolt for 130' on each pitch
Great White Way .9+ 3 bolts for two pitches of 110' each
Dixie Crystals .9+ the same as above

etc etc etc


Climbed at both Stone and Looking Glass for over four years straight back in the late 80's early 90's.

I assisted in FAing five routes at Stone.

BTW: One of the toughest and most precise routes there is AMTRACK, 5.10X. The Direct start to GFR. 45 feet of Old Skool .10+ with NO Pro.
It is all there but you best be good on your feet and nerves.

Burchey wrote:

Kahuna wrote:Precisely Tim.

That is why all my first and second time students do nothing but slab. Just as I and so many others before did when they first started.

Proper and Precise Footwork is 80% of ones physical climbing ability.

Any World Class climber will tell you that.

Always cool to see it click with a new climber...Hey! My legs are important!

That is why all my first and second time students do nothing but slab. Just as I and so many others before did when they first started.

Vitaliy M. wrote:

That is why all my first and second time students do nothing but slab. Just as I and so many others before did when they first started.

It is much better to start students on climbs that don’t require solid technique to be enjoyable. Anyone reasonably fit can do a 5.7-5.8 slab climb on top rope vs a crack (which requires finger/hand/fist jamming or OW technique) of that grade. Took me a lot of practice to learn how to do solid jams.
Clients return when they have fun

AdamsKerr wrote:Does anyone else have this issue?

It dawned on me at the crag yesterday that i climb cracks and gear routes much better than i do face/sport routes. I feel very fluid on 5.9/5.10 gear routes but flail a little on and 5.10 and above face climbs.

Sierra Ledge Rat wrote:

AdamsKerr wrote:Does anyone else have this issue?

It dawned on me at the crag yesterday that i climb cracks and gear routes much better than i do face/sport routes. I feel very fluid on 5.9/5.10 gear routes but flail a little on and 5.10 and above face climbs.

I wish that I had your problem. I was a natural at face/slabs, but floundered in cracks.

Count your blessings and enjoy your gift.

Kahuna wrote:Anybody can climb cracks.

But not many dare delve into the world of runout Slab.

Wastral wrote:Reason more 'can' slab/face climb over crack climbing is that crack climbing requires a higher degree of upper body fitness and frankly a higher tolerance of pain. The initiate newbie A) doesn't generally have the upper body fitness level, and B) probably isn't expecting a little pain and flinches releasing their hand from the crack when in reality they need to squeeze their thumb "down-in" locking fist in instead. So, the newbie climbs what they can and builds strength and confidence.

Add very few practice crack walls in gyms or at parks. So newbies have been practicing face climbing and VERY little crack climbing. Face climbing walls are cheap and easy to make. Crack climbing walls are hard to make.