Hello,

For those that have climbed Muztagh Ata, did you rope up? If so, between which camps? We are going to be climbing and skiing Muztagh Ata this July (starting on the 12th) and I am working out a packing list. I have heard different opinions on the need to bring a harness, axe, and rope or not.

Thanks

I've never been there, but as no one else has answered your question... I know of at least two crevasse fall deaths on MA, one of them on skis. I have two friends who have guided MA and they always rope up. Maybe high camp to the summit is OK unroped, but not lower down.

Apparently, on the northern route there are some short crevassed sections, most of which have fixed lines in place.
On the southern route, there are supposed to be fewer crevasses.

I am planning a trip there this July; however, I haven't got a permit yet. Perhaps we could arrange to get on the same permit to save money. Let me know if this interests you. I will be in Kashgar at the beginning of July trying to find partners and reasonable rates for a permit and liaison. My partner and I both speak fluent Chinese.

Michael

I just wrote a complete trip report with conditions of what the mountain was like when we were there this year. Hopefully this helps others plan trips in the future!

http://www.summitpost.org/skiing-muztag ... ina/872095