Trusting new partners?

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jvonrueden

 
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Re: Trusting new partners?

by jvonrueden » Wed Sep 11, 2013 7:47 pm

You can get a general idea of someones attitude, knowledge, decision making, and risk tolerance just by talking to them. Questions you should be asking yourself are
Does he sketch me out?
Has he been here before?
Has he done this before?
Can he explain why he does something a certain way, or is he just parroting?
Do I trust this person's decisions?
Can this person manage the situation/get help if I get injured?

This gives you a sense of what to expect from a particular partner. Talking in person is best. Talking on the phone gives you less information, and talking on the internet gives you even less information.

The above gives you an idea of whether or not to get out with a person. Let's assume your comfortable with this guy, have a little confidence in him and yourself, and have decided to go out on a trip, climb, cragging, what ever it may be.

Now at the climb/crag/route, you continue observing and talking to your new partner. If something doesn't look right, ask. It doesn't matter how long you've been climbing with another person, or how much more experienced he is- speak up. Are you worried about rock fall? AVI conditions? Difficulty of a route? Anything related to safety? Speak up. Talk it over with your partner. If you disagree, explain your reasoning. If you can't agree, the most conservative, risk averse decision should be the default.

If you're in a new area/environment (you said you were new to vertical rock) Then you are leaning on your partners experience and judgement. New to anchors? Read up on them in Freedom of the Hills or watch some instructional videos on youtube. Cam placement? Same. Giving yourself a basic understanding allows you to have discussions with your partner and will better arm you to spot red flags.

When selecting a partner, the three most important things to me are my partners judgement, compatible risk tolerance, and if our combined experience is adequate for the objective.

I've climbed with several strangers in the gym, at the crag, and on big mountains. The process is the same.

With any new partner, I have them demonstrate to me how they belay. It maybe awkward, some might be insulted, but if my life is in their hands, I like to know how they'll use them.

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norco17

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norco17

 
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Re: Trusting new partners?

by norco17 » Thu Sep 12, 2013 3:11 pm

Steve1215 wrote:


long story short, don't trust any climber under the age of 45





unless it's like alex honnold or someone of that caliber



.



I disagree, but I am only 27. Personaly there are a lot of climbers under 45 I would trust before honnold. You have to have the same risk tolerance to really feel comfortable climbing with someone.

Also someone mentioned youtube videos, some of those are a little suspect, but most are good. I like the videos on this site. http://www.climbinglife.com/rocks/instructional-videos

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mills

 
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Re: Trusting new partners?

by mills » Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:36 pm

I find it really hard to trust new partners even belaying in the gym, I don't feel that I can push my limits or even think of falling off without getting quite nervous...I have about a dozen or so buddies whom I can totally trust to hold my rope, it`s a difficult decision when climbing with someone you can`t 100% trust.

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