I'm planning some trips to the high peaks of the Adirondacks and White Mountains this winter and have found that I'm gonna need ice tools.I already own a non-technical axe that's served me well on walk ups (Washington via Lionshead etc) but I need some help picking a tool or pair of tools for more serious mountaineering. My two big goals for this winter are Gothics North Face and Katahdin.

Question time!
1. Can I make do with a single technical tool and an axe or do I need a pair of ice tools?
2. I'm on a pretty tight budget, so what are some older tools that I could pick up without spending more than $100 per tool?
3. Anybody have some old tools lying around that they want to sell me?

When are you going to ADK? I will be spending a few weeks this winter knocking out the rest of the 46 high peaks. I have i think 28 left. sounds like a great hike, will def keep my eyes out for some good deals.

Don't know yet, probably January or February. Good luck with your 46R.

I recommend a pair of these -

You can probably get by with one long ice axe and one technical tool. I don't know the routes or your experience but there are probably many stories of guys climbing WI3+ with this combo.

I'd still recommend buying a pair of technical ice tools though.

I might be willing to sell you a pair of DMM Fly ice tools. I'll have to talk to my roommate. They're perfect for a second tool but not aggressive enough for steep ice like my BD Cobras.

Buy a pair of Black Diamond Venoms. 50 cm hammer, 57cm adze. Not too much over your $100 price point.

They will get you up most anything you want to climb, from easy snow slogs to technical alpine routes, to waterfall ice. By the time you are tackling routes that are beyond the capabilities of the Venoms, you won't have to ask for advice about what your next set of ice tools should be.

Does anyone know if either Petzl Trigrest or Grivel Slider pinky rests fit the Petzl Aztarex? I climb most alpine ice routes with it, but I have lost the pinky rest when plunging it in the snow - and Petzl does not have spare parts any more. One the same note - do you know where to find old-style Petzl picks for the Aztarex? Thanks!

fruitflyman wrote:Does anyone know if either Petzl Trigrest or Grivel Slider pinky rests fit the Petzl Aztarex? I climb most alpine ice routes with it, but I have lost the pinky rest when plunging it in the snow - and Petzl does not have spare parts any more. One the same note - do you know where to find old-style Petzl picks for the Aztarex? Thanks!

I think the Trigrest fits the Aztarex, but I'm not 100% certain. I recently bought a set of spare picks for Aztar(ex) from EMS. Maybe see if they still have some in stock?

fruitflyman wrote:Does anyone know if either Petzl Trigrest or Grivel Slider pinky rests fit the Petzl Aztarex?

Yes.

Thanks a lot, guys! Damien, what's up with the tape? Did you partially remove the forefinger hook and tape the rest to the shaft? Is that necessary to keep the whole contraption in place?

Yes, that's exactly what I did. Cut through it with a saw. The lower trigger was too low to be used, given that I wanted the main trigger very low and it seemed it would be an added impediment to any plunging I might do.

How well the remainder of the piece sits against the shaft depends on where you cut it, and I gave it a slight bevel to again provide a smoother profile for plunging. The tape is extra security and makes it a bit neater, at least until it gets ripped up a bit.

Thanks, Damien! Speaking of plunging - does anyone know if it's possible to retrofit Aztarex butt-end with a proper spike?