Ascend to Vallee Blanche via Mer de Glace

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Ascend to Vallee Blanche via Mer de Glace

by Andrii » Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:34 pm


i was wondering how probable it would be to ascend to Vallee Blanche/Refuge Cosmique via the Mer de Glace glacier in one day, starting say around 9 a.m. from Montenvers station. Also, if that's too long of a trip for 1 day, is there any safe place up the Mer de Glace/Geant glaciers where one can bivy for a night?

Any suggestions/ideas are warmly welcomed!

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Re: Ascend to Vallee Blanche via Mer de Glace

by bigcat » Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:55 pm

Hi, mer de glace to vallee blanche in one day,mmm maybe if your name is ueli steck,realy that is a long route.As for bivvying on or near mer de glace in summer yes lots of safe places, though in winter id be a little more concerned.It realy depends on your experience,hope this helps.You can always try contacting one of the local guides via email or google chamonixblog(skiing and climbing conditions) this guys website has lots of good info.

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Re: Ascend to Vallee Blanche via Mer de Glace

by english_alpinist » Wed Feb 18, 2015 4:02 am

I know this does not help your question at all, but I was wondering almost the exact same thing (just posted on it)! I plan an attempt on Mont Blanc this year, and wondered why not walk up from Chamonix to Cosmique via the Mer and Vallee, instead of taking cable car. However, I would spend 2 days to reach Cosmique (staying one night at Requin, about half way). It does seem a long way, especially considering having to spend a lot of time avoiding crevasses. The final climb to Cosmique also seems as steep as the upper slopes of the 3 Monts. Just my thoughts (I have never been there).

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Re: Ascend to Vallee Blanche via Mer de Glace

by Dogfish » Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:48 pm

i think your talking about the original route 5th Aug 1856 up the Midi Devouassoux et al.

Day 1 to Requin Hut 800m height gain relaxed 4 hrs
Day 2 relaxed 1320m height gain to the midi 6 hrs...times in good conditions with nil probs. Amazing journey personally i wouldn't want to be racing it.

ive been considering the same thing this summer...and then doing the Vallee Blanche traverse to theTorino Hut and avoid the midi arete late i the day when the tide is against you in soft snow.

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