2 jumars with grigri backup?

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Brian C

 
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Re: 2 jumars with grigri backup?

by Brian C » Fri May 30, 2014 1:46 pm

I always use a grigri2 instead of a backup knot when jugging. Once you get more than a few feet off of the belay it feeds itself and does not need managing. I am not the worlds most experienced aid climber but to me it seems more multifaceted (lowerouts, pendulums, etc) and is easier to deal with than tying backup knots. It is also a nice mental confidence booster.

Here you can see my setup...
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Sierra Ledge Rat

 
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Re: 2 jumars with grigri backup?

by Sierra Ledge Rat » Sat May 31, 2014 8:39 pm

I do a lot of vertical caving. Cavers and climbers approach rope work quite differently. Cavers tend to ascend fixed free-hanging ropes, while climbers tend to be cleaning pitches that zig-zag somewhat.

Anyway, I use a caving vertical system called the Frog. The basic Frog uses one ascender and one grigri-like device, but personally, I use a modified Frog that would be analogous to a climber using 2 ascenders and a grigri. The Frog allows you to pinch the rope between your feet to provide the rope tension necessary to get started from the ground.

In addition to the safety factor of having 3 points of contact with the rope, having two ascenders allows you to pass rebelay points more safely.

Here is a detailed write-up of the Frog system, if you're interested.
http://technology.darkfrontier.us/Vertical/Frog/

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Brian C

 
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Re: 2 jumars with grigri backup?

by Brian C » Sat May 31, 2014 11:25 pm

My buddy that I've climbed several big towers with always uses the Frog system and swears by it.

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RoboJoel

 
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Re: 2 jumars with grigri backup?

by RoboJoel » Sun Jan 04, 2015 9:05 pm

why bring the extra weight. 2 jumars + clove and your'e good to go.

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WyomingSummits

 
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Re: 2 jumars with grigri backup?

by WyomingSummits » Tue Jan 06, 2015 1:29 am

sharperblue wrote:i think the point is about mental security as much as physical security darlings; we all have our own thresholds. have a read through accident reports and you'll find a few un-clipped jumars killing people


Just this weekend there were two climbers killed in El Portrero Chico due to not tying backup knots while rapping. Having a backup is prudent. That being said, 2 ascenders and a grigri is more than enough in most circumstances. Far be it from me to judge someone for being too safe.

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johngo

 
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Re: 2 jumars with grigri backup?

by johngo » Sun Dec 20, 2015 4:32 pm

Watch the videos on YouTube by Chris McNamara on a aid climbing technique.

The guy absolutely knows his stuff, and his videos are short and very informative.

Jugging Overhanging Terrain - How To Big Wall Climb
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHup6TFx_Q0

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