June 3, 1912 to March 22, 2016

"The best America could offer."
William Alsup

Glen Dawson was one of the giants of American Climbing. Only after we read through all the climbs he did (Bill Oliver wrote a very good article for Glen's 100th Birthday) do we realize the impact he had on the early US rock climbing and mountaineering scene. He was Honorary Member of the RCS and for years presented slide shows to the RCS and SCMA which included rare photos of ascents, some including incredible glass slides produced by his buddy, Ansel Adams. What a treat these meetings were...

The first 5.8 rock climb in the US was his and Dick Jones Mechanic's Route on Tahquitz Rock. That route's second pitch involves about 80 feet of vertical unprotected bucket climbing. They did this in 1937 in tennis shoes. I would urge anyone, to go and climb that route. If you do, you will respect the man even more.

I have been fortunate to have met and spent time with Glen Dawson while on the BOD of the RCS in the early 80s. He did so much for climbing and Southern California Sierra Club climbing sections. Thank you Glen.

Glen's copy of Starr's Guide

Sad news Had the pleasure of knowing Glen the last 10 years of his life. He was one of many heros to me and inspired several of us to climb higher. Always loved to share about his life, family and "long ago adventures" (as he liked to call them). We'd talk about a variety of topics and shared photos of climbs we both did. I asked him what his absolute favorite climb was. Without a pause, he'd say, "The East Buttress Of Mount Whitney was the most memorable adventure. Dick Jones sure had a way of pushing me to do things like this." Saying this with biggest of smiles. We talked about his participation in the search and recovery of Peter Starr Jr. on Michael Minaret, a story that inspire a few of us to have a dedication plaque for Mr. Starr to honor his spirit for adventure. I'll never forget the look in Glen's eyes when I told him where it was placed. He said it was a very emotional experience for all involved. Glen was an amazing man and my brother of the mountains. You will be missed Glen!