Rope team of two climbers in F to PD+ alpine routes

by **Diego Sahagún** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:56 am

It's not my start in such routes, I've done some in the Alps including attempting Mont Blanc twice (one summited). I'd gone without any rope but I prefered to ask before. I'm in doubt about which one to buy

by **AndyJB444** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:21 pm

Dude, if he didn't know basic crevasse rescue then he probably shouldn't be out there no matter what the size of his team is...

Bart wrote:
tmaxwell wrote:The fact your asking about it should answer your question. If there is a doubt in your mind don't do it

I'd second that! Glacier travel in a 2 person team with 0 experience is pretty unacceptable from a safety standpoint. You may know how to prusik up a rope but that's of little use if you don't know how to hold a fall, make an anchor (dig in your axe) and attach the rope to the anchor. Furthermore, what would you do if your partner is somehow unable to prusik out of the crevasse? Even if you've held the fall, set up a perfect anchor and attached the rope to it, if your partner is hurt or otherwise unable to perform, then what? There are very good pulley systems you can use (ie with the aforementioned tibloc or just standard prusiks), but again these take practice. Finally, knowing how to prusik isn't enough because the rope will cut into the snow-lip of the crevasse, often providing an insurpassable obstacle for normal prusik technique. There's a nifty way around this, but its not something you want to have to figure out while hanging in a crevasse!

It's not my intention to demotivate you, but 2 person glacier travel is serious business and I wouldn't want you to get into any nasty situations. On the other hand, it's a skill you couuld probably learn in a day, so maybe hiring a guide or having a more experience friend show you would be a great start.

Good luck and have fun,

Bart

by **Diego Sahagún** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:53 pm

Who and why :?:

And please be honest and say how many of you know how to get out of a glacier crack with a broken leg and taking the basic kit for a PD alpine route. By the way, I was asking for it. We won't take the complete gear for it anyway. As I've said before, if I was asked I'd ascend without any rope, nor carabiners, tiblocs... But it's not the case :evil:

by **Diego Sahagún** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 12:15 am

Would you buy a 30m or a 48m rope :?:

We're thinking on the Beal Joker 9.1mm. Would you prefer Beal Booster :?:

I can't find it in Madrid

http://www.bealplanet.com/portail-2006/ ... de&lang=us

by **JakobFisker** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 5:09 pm

I would buy the 8.5 m beal or the genesis from mammut.
The joker is not meant for that type of climbing.

by **Diego Sahagún** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:56 am

There is no Beal 8.5mm. Do you mean the 8.6mm Cobra II :?:

Wich rope length would do you choose :?:

by **Diego Sahagún** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:35 am

Anyone

by **Diego Sahagún** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:55 pm

I've already charged Beal Joker 9.1mm x 50m

by **JakobFisker** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 5:16 pm

I would buy 50-60 m.
But yes, the Cobra is the one.
Joker is a high end climbing rope

by **theflyingmountaineer** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:52 pm

Deleted User wrote:
Diego Sahagún wrote:Hopefully I've never fell into a crevasse. Nadie has never trode a glacier

Wow... just amazing.

Have you even read a book about glacier travel? Perhaps you should pick it up again and read what it says just inside the front cover. (And repeated dozens of times on the inside)

It's your job to save your own ass so good luck with crevasse rescue and ZERO skills! I wish I could be there to watch as you try to set up a z while your wife dangles over a massive void and you're 5 feet from the lip.

Have fun.

What a schmuck. Good thing he's gone, I suppose.

by **Diego Sahagún** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 12:01 am

JakobFisker wrote:Joker is a high end climbing rope

by **Diego Sahagún** » Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:03 pm

Since my left shoulder still hurts and I won't be able to ascend something long or carrying a heavy backpack (only things for a not long day).

Could anyone recommend us some quick and easy ascents in Mont Blanc Massif, Valais or southern Oberland Bernese :?:

We've thought on Breithorn, Allalinhorn on the normal route from Allalinpass (though I've done it), the classic walk on Mer de Glace, probably walking up to Gare des Glaciers, Aiguilles Rouges, Hornli Hut...

Does anyone know if it's possible to leave the car near Tunnel du Mont Blanc entrance and reach Refuge des Cosmiques from Gare des Glaciers taking a cableway :?:

by **Ejnar Fjerdingstad** » Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:16 pm

Diego Sahagún wrote:Since my left shoulder still hurts and I won't be able to ascend something long or carrying a heavy backpack (only things for a not long day).

Could anyone recommend us some quick and easy ascents in Mont Blanc Massif, Valais or southern Oberland Bernese

We've thought on Breithorn, Allalinhorn on the normal route from Allalinpass (though I've done it), the classic walk on Mer de Glace, probably walking up to Gare des Glaciers, Aiguilles Rouges, Hornli Hut...

Does anyone know if it's possible to leave the car near Tunnel du Mont Blanc entrance and reach Refuge des Cosmiques from Gare des Glaciers taking a cableway

There is a parking area near the tunnel on the French side, but I don't know for how long you can park. Perhaps you can Google the tunnel administration office, and then call them. I think Allalinhorn is a very good choice by the way, that's where I took my wife on her first climb of a glacier mountain (with a guide, for the same reason I think you should be three).

by **mjrgardens** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 6:55 pm

Use the rope, certainly, buy tie in-bite over hand or fig 8 knots between the two of you. This will hopefully create enough friction to stop the second following in behind. One every 1.5m is about right. Wouldn't bother with the helmut, though.
Prussik in front, with a second long loop ready to attach for your foot. It's worth practicing escaping the system suspended from a tree or ladder...you WILL look a tool performing this. not forgetting self arrest.

by **Diego Sahagún** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:01 am

mjrgardens wrote:buy tie in-bite over hand.

What's that :?:

Is it similar to a Tibloc :?:

We have it

Rope team of two climbers in F to PD+ alpine routes

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