by mvs » Fri Jan 06, 2012 10:57 am
by MoapaPk » Fri Jan 06, 2012 3:32 pm
by mvs » Fri Jan 06, 2012 8:16 pm
MoapaPk wrote:MVS, the deaths that occurred happened with people trying to downclimb the route. It's an odd mix of featureless volcanic rock, with lots of shallow, slanted mini-ledges, but no cracks on the lower (steeper) part, and lichen +/or thin ice to make things interesting. There are just 3 ancient bolts and hangers, and they are hard to pick out, as they have rusted to about the same color as the rock. Yet there is a very good anchor at the top.
I may be over-thinking this. Folks who've done this pitch tell me that other stuff we do is worse. I just don't like lichen-covered rock.
Anyway, it looks like the weight of 8.1 doubles is not that much greater than 8.0 twins, and I would never use dynamic rope enough to worry about abrasion. Setting up a pull cord can be a nasty business, so I'd have to be much more confident with that before I committed.
by Dow Williams » Sun Jan 08, 2012 5:41 pm
by ExcitableBoy » Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:47 pm
Dow Williams wrote:If you are using ropes rated for both methods, one of the more critical pieces of information is that you do not switch between the two methods within the same pitch. This negates their function and safety.
by bearbreeder » Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:36 am
by Alex Wood » Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:26 am
by ExcitableBoy » Tue Jan 17, 2012 10:43 pm
divnamite wrote:Aren't most double ropes have high impact force than singles? I read somewhere Will Gadd published some data from Sterling about this.
by Dow Williams » Tue Jan 17, 2012 11:52 pm
ExcitableBoy wrote:divnamite wrote:Aren't most double ropes have high impact force than singles? I read somewhere Will Gadd published some data from Sterling about this.
Twins have the highest impact force
Singles the next highest
Halves/doubles the lowest
Dow, did I get that right?
by divnamite » Wed Jan 18, 2012 3:49 pm
by jrisku » Thu Jan 19, 2012 2:47 pm
by divnamite » Thu Jan 19, 2012 4:17 pm
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