The time has come for me to spend my hard earned cash on a new pack to fill a void in my line of packs. So the question is what size? I'm debating between something in the 40-45L range and something in the 55-60L range. The pack will be used for approaches and summit pack for multiday (3-5 days, generally spring, summer and fall) climbs (Class 3-5) in the Sierra Nevada; Tyndall and Williamson over 3 days; 4 days in the Palisades.

My current catalog of packs include:
- BD Zippo 27L (old but great rock and ice climbing day pack),
- Deuter Futura 42L (good small backpack and crag pack but not sleek for climbing)
- Gregory Whitney 95L (huge expedition pack and complete overkill for weekend trips).

I've generally narrowed the contenders down to:
- Cilogear 45L Worksack (expands to almost 60L?),
- Cilogear 60L Worksack (can I crank it down for summit day?),
- BD Speed 40, (spartan, light and on sale)
- BD Speed 55, (bigger, spartan, light, and also on sale)
- CCW Chernobyl (big enough?)

I've read reviews (Cilogear rocks), shopped the sales (BD is a bargain), and am still completely befuddled.

The Deuter guide 45+ is a great climbing pack with removable stays and hip belt that also expands to nearly 60L. The Chernobyl is bomber but with no stays isn't quite as comfortable for long approaches, but you'll have it forever.

The beauty of the Cilogear strap and buckle system is that you can crank it down in almost infinite ways.

radson wrote:The beauty of the Cilogear strap and buckle system is that you can crank it down in almost infinite ways.

I can second this, cilogear make some of the best packs available, if i could turn back the clock i would have gotten the cilogear 45 rather than my lowe alpine alpine attack 44:55 and the 45L work sack expands to 75 liters not all most 60 so even better.
The BD flash is a decent pack though as far as packs goes it really just dosn't get any better than cilo gear and the price difference is actually pretty minimal (of the top of my head around 40$) hope i helped.

I have an older style Guide 45+ that I use for splitboard mountaineering. Great pack.

If you want something for purely alpine pursuits, another good option is the Gregory Alpinisto 50

I am using a Gregory Targhee 45. I love a great deal that I can run an insulated tube inside the insulated cover on the right shoulder strap. This makes it a breezze to drink well bellow 20c without the tube freezing. Beside that it has a clever
straping system which can strap just about anything in any configuration. The pack can unzip from the back which makes it quite easy to get your lunch.

Look at the hyperlightmountaineergear web site. I have the porter 4400 and like the weight and comfort.

45-50 L packs are the most versatile size. I use mine for summer multiday alpine climbs and winter 2-3 day alpine climbs.

I have had a lot of great BD packs - the Ice pack and the Predator were both favorite work horses. I was disappointed with the Speed, though. I bought a 55L Speed pack and returned it. Odd shape, too heavy for the size. stupid tool attachment system.

I have many partners who have Cilogear packs, and I have never seen so many destroyed, falling apart P.O.Ss. This could be because my crew is super hard core, however, one of my 'hard core crew' is a father of two kids, a manager at Microsoft and manages to get out on the weekends, occasionally. He went through three Cilogear packs in three years. The last trip we did together I could hear the straps snapping off as we hiked. Maybe Graham has addressed the durability issues since then? Also, I find CG packs to be super fiddly, unnecessarily complicated, and straps fall off because of their attachment system. I lost a sternum strap last trip I did with one. I find CG packs to be just plain weird. That said, I know a lot of very accomplished climbers who love them. I don't.

The Cold Cold World Chernobyl is a no nonsense 50 liter pack that has all the features you want, carries well, is durable and reasonably light. I would get one over any Cilogear or current BD model available. Randy will do custom work as well and leave off the daisy chains or build it with spectra grid fabric if you so choose.

One of my partners has an ArxTeryx's Alpha FL 45 pack that I was skeptical of at first but have grown to appreciate. Very clean, simple, and durable. Worth checking out.

I just bought the 40 L (2014 style) BD Speed and I like it very much. I already have tons of packs but I don't have anything small enough to carry gear for day winter scrambles and/or overnight super light summer trips. The Speed is strippable, you can remove the back pannel, the top pocket and the harness. I like it.

The unintended benefit is that my 94 Wild Things 75-80 liter Andinista now has a new lease on life as the back pannel from the Speed fits into the Andinista's back pannel sleeve perfectly. Makes the Andinista almost rigid. So now I can use the Andinista again, even with my bad back.

Edit...The Andinista adjusts from 1,800 c.i. to over 5,000 c.i. so one can use it as a summit pack and to carry full climbing gear for multi-day trips. Ingenious!

asmrz,
You beat me to it..

DukeJH,
Have you looked at the Wild Things Andinista?
http://www.wildthingsgear.com/products/ ... a-pack-mil

Over the years I've spoke with a few climbers and guides who just loved the Andinista.
FWIW, I'd focus on the CCW or the Andinista.
Currently, I'm trying to wear out a Dana Designs Bomb Pack and Gregory Alpinisto (really like it) before I can justify spending more bucks on another pack (i.e, CCW, Andinista)

Also: McHale alpine packs
http://www.mchalepacks.com/ultralight/index.htm

They say our we don't own things, they own us. I say, if a pack is gonna "own us" it might as well be an excellent quality/utility owner.

Good luck!
JM

I just looked at the link above provided by Jesus Malverde.

The Andinista has not changed much in 20 years. Back then it was the best alpine pack on the planet and it is a tribute to its design, that the pack is not only available on today's market, but, except for very small changes, it is the same pack that has been available since the late 80s.

Same story with CCW Chernobyl. No big changes in 20 years. The pack was bomber and just what one needed and nothing more.

I think a lot depends on what one wants to use the pack for. Today there is a huge difference between something for backpacking, or doing a little of a lot of things and of course a pack for climbing. I don't think even today there is much on the market that will do it all. I buy climbing packs first and everything else is second. It just depends on what your primary use is.

For lifetime of climbing I would think the minimum might be:

One pack 1.800 c.i. (30 liters) day pack that can be stripped and used as a summit pack.
One pack of 40 liters (2,400 c.i.) for a little more gear
One pack at about 4,000 c.i. or more, that can be used for winter alpine trips or weekend technical climbing trips in the mountains.
One pack of more than 6,000 (I use an old Gregory Cassin, 34 years old, 7,000 c.i.+, unbreakable) for expeditions and heavy carries into the mountains.

Just my take on this.

Haven't had it for too long but I've been very happy with my Chernobyl thus far.

I'm cheap as hell so when I was looking for a pack the main thing I was looking for was something I could use cragging, ice climbing, backpacking, and on my once-a-year-if-I'm-lucky alpine trip - and something that wouldn't make me go out and buy a $200 pack again in 3 years.

So far I've used the Chernobyl for all those purposes and been completely satisfied. If the construction of the pack and the comments of others are any indication I should be using it for those purposes for many years to come.

I took delivery of my CG 45L Worksack in May and have used it weekend backpacking in Mineral King, climbing Shasta, Tyndall, Williamson, 5 days in the Palisades and a bad weekend trip on Split. So far I love the pack. The "custom" frame sheet basically consists of a heavy plastic sheet and an thick aluminum stay that you bend to the shape of your back and I love it. This is the best fitting pack I have worn.

I usually pick up my pack by the shoulder straps but have learned to pick up the Worksack, when loaded, by the gear loops. On Tyndall I thought I might have heard a stitch pop but the pack has held together. The materials are reasonably durable; I have a couple snags on the bottom and bottom sides of the pack.

All in all I'm happy with my purchase.