Too early for Jeff?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Washington and Oregon. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Pacific Northwest Climbing Partners section.
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Pallando

 
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Too early for Jeff?

by Pallando » Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:52 pm

We're having some insanely nice weather... my climbing partner is planning a trip up Mt. Jefferson in mid-March (Pamela Lake Route).

I don't see anyone signing the climber's log yet this season, and I hear about the ice and rime on the summit pinnacle. On the other hand, the traverse probably has a lot of cover, and maybe the nice weather will make the pinnacle less rimey.

Anyone have any recommendations? I was suggesting Hood, but he seems set on Jefferson.

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Nick Turtura

 
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Re: Too early for Jeff?

by Nick Turtura » Tue Mar 10, 2015 4:13 am

Depends on your comfort level. I was up there last May (white water route.) The conditions were perfect, the snow was good, the traverse was clean and very stable, and it was nice because the weather stayed cold and kept everything together. However, when we arrived at the summit block, which is probably the last 200', we looked up in absolute horror. 15' horizontal wind blown daggers, mushrooms, and the worse rime I had ever seen. It reminded me of superman's castle with all the jagged crystals. Everything crumbled as we tried to chop out a route. So again, it depends on your comfort level. Personally, I turned around and went back in late summer. 15 hours car to car, free soloing the summit block, and early enough to cross that traverse still frozen. Cake.

btw I'd saw that Jeff is the best mountain in the PNW. Just don't tell anyone about it. :wink:


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