Trap Dike in Winter

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Eastern US. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Eastern US Climbing Partners section.
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triyoda

 
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Trap Dike in Winter

by triyoda » Thu Jan 07, 2010 2:43 am

Is this mostly snow?
Do you need ice tools or just a mountaineering axe/crampons?
How would you compare this to one of the Gullies in Huntington on Mt. Washington? It does not look too bad and I wanted to try it out.

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climbxclimb

 
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by climbxclimb » Thu Jan 07, 2010 2:58 am

http://www.summitpost.org/route/205900/Trap-Dike-Winter.html

This is the link to the page for this route I created.
You need at least a tool for a winter ascent because there some short steps of vertical ice, WI2.
Compared to Pinnacle Gully it is technically easier but more remote and longer in the approach and the climb itself.
And check out the avalanche conditions....that thing comes down sometimes...

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mtngrl

 
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by mtngrl » Thu Jan 07, 2010 3:15 am

It depends. I did the Trap Dike about a week ago, it was mostly a snow slog.
There were three short ice pitches - I used 1 technical tool and 1 mountaineering ax. The ice was still pretty thin. I could see and hear the water running underneath the ice in places.
The last 100 feet or so to the slab is a snow slog. The slab had thin ice and snow, but was pretty easy with crampons and axes.
It is a long day - about 12 hours with the hike in and out.

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CowHampshire

 
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Be careful

by CowHampshire » Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:02 pm

Regardless of the conditions (in winter) I'd be really conservative in there, especially near the top. IMHO - strong party with a long rope between the middle two, and descend via Lake Arnold.


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