Tying ropes for rappelling...

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:29 pm

Kano...

You are correct, only one tie in point, with a clove hitch.... = EDK....

I always use a PA ( some sort of sling deal ) and the rope. That is two points, I do tie a clove hitch with the rope cause you can adjust the length and the PA is on a locking biner.

Unless I am rappelling, than I am fond of going with just one PA, keep it simple. But that is just me.

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RickF

 
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by RickF » Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:54 am

I read through most of these two nights ago and I thought it would be interesting to see how "Freedom of the Hills" weighs in on this topic. So this morning I grabbed my FOTH before I left the house on my way to work. (By the way I was taught to always use a double-fisherman for joining two ropes for rappelling.)

In the FOTH book, the authors don't refer to it as the "Euro Death Knot" but the 7th edition, page 141 says "The double overhand knot is useful as a rappel knot in icey conditions or for rappels where the rope could catch when the rope is retrieved".

Freedom of the Hills also says "The double fisherman's knot is a very secure knot for tying the ends of two ropes together for a rappel. It is preferred over two rewoven figure eights because it is less bulky and tends to hang up less often when the rope is pulled down after a rappel".

In summary:
Double overhand = useful
Double Fisherman = very secure
Two Rewoven Figure Eights = Bulky and tends to hang-up.

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Cheeseburglar

 
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by Cheeseburglar » Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:44 am

RickF wrote:In the FOTH book, the authors don't refer to it as the "Euro Death Knot" but the 7th edition, page 141 says "The double overhand knot is useful as a rappel knot in icey conditions or for rappels where the rope could catch when the rope is retrieved".


Nice catch RickF.
So who coined the EDK name? And why? Did someone die?

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Augie Medina

 
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Re: Tying ropes for rappelling...

by Augie Medina » Fri Jan 06, 2023 2:27 am

I do a lot of canyoneering and rappelling is a core part of that activity. To tie two ropes together I've used the EDK for decades with a foot of tail or so. To assure the skeptical partner, I sometimes tie two knots, one on top of the other. That's like both belt and suspenders. Needless to say, if you tie two ropes together to rappel you best be skilled at passing a knot.

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