Ultra light Climbing gear

Post climbing gear-related questions, offer advice. For classifieds, please use that forum.
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by climbxclimb » Thu May 20, 2010 12:42 pm

goatboy smellz wrote:I was not talking about you personally.

My comment was referring that most ultra light climbing gear sucks compared
to what it is trying to replace. Carrying dyneema slings for weight savings over
nylon runners on a multi pitch climb seems like overkill or having a light jacket
rip open on a tree branch while skiing is not worth the trouble. Although light ropes
and biners can add up and keeping those items light does make a difference.

I’m just bitter because I break light gear and have tended to err on the item just
one up from the lightest, hoping for a little more durability.

I need to clarify...the purpose of the discussion and of the Gear Section I created, is to identify super light gear for fast and light alpine ascents, where light means fast and fast means relative safety...and ripping open your $500 shell is not a big deal as long as you bring back home you life....

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by welle » Thu May 20, 2010 3:09 pm

Autoxfil wrote:
welle wrote:Trango Superfly Lockers!!!

I much prefer the WC Neon- a gram or two heavier, but it's a keylock.

BD OZ shave big weight.

Foam helmet (I have a Tracer).

Metolius nuts and TCUs. A TCU weighs less than a similar sized nut!!


ultra-light windshirts and shells - Pata M10 and Houdini.

Western Mountaineering

But the biggest thing:

leaving stuff home. Do more with less.

+1 on foam helmets - I have a Meteor III by Petzl, best purchase ever.

hmmm, I don't think tricams count as ultra-light - bigger sizes are heavier than similar size cams.

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by brenta » Thu May 20, 2010 6:17 pm

A short list, with several items that have already been mentioned:

WC Neon small lockers
Mammut Serenity 8.9 rope
Petzl Meteor III helmet (not for Alpine, though, IMO)
Petzl Attache 3D HMS biner
DMM Bugette belay device
WC Superlight Rocks nuts
C.A.M.P. Alp 95 harness (but I haven't had it long enough to be able to recommend it)
Petzl e-light headlamp (not for Alpine starts, though)
C.A.M.P. Nano 23 biners (for racking)
Mammut Moses wiregate biners
WC Nitro and Helium, DMM Shield: not the lightest (35 g), but large, snag-free design

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by Buckaroo » Mon May 24, 2010 4:05 am

Go-lite Breeze day-pack 15 oz.
(can carry up to 40 lbs)

HB Carbonfiber helmet 13.5 oz.

Snow Peak stove 3 oz.

re-used 1qt water bottle 2.5 oz
(vitamin water, sobe etc.)
compare at 7 oz. for lexan

Bic lighter with full fuel .85 oz
Bic lighter 3/4 empty beforehand .38 oz.

GU energy gel 1.1 oz
100 cal (91cal/oz)
35mg Potassium
25g total carb (22.75g carb/oz)

Powerbar Gel 1.4 oz
110 cal (78cal/oz)
20mg Potassium
27g total carb (19.17g carb/oz)

the GU has the edge in power/weight ratio

as in auto racing less weight is free reliable horsepower and pound weight savings are realized an ounce at a time.

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Re: Ultra light Climbing gear

by Norman » Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:08 pm


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