SummitPost.org

cp0915 wrote:I'd like to thank everyone involved in this thread for giving me something to do this slow morning at work. This thread rocks!!!

There's nothing like a thread about a deceased climber abandoned on the Big E to bring everyone together.

cp0915 wrote:I'd like to thank everyone involved in this thread for giving me something to do this slow morning at work. This thread rocks!!!

^^^This iz korrekt.

Bruno_Tibet wrote:The big advantage of Internet forum is that you can post without the proper knowledge and experience!

Well at least there's one thing Chief is good at.

Alpynisto wrote:

Bruno_Tibet wrote:The big advantage of Internet forum is that you can post without the proper knowledge and experience!

Well at least there's one thing Chief is good at.

You my friend get weaker as you post... never have anything original just the same ole funkass no name Avatar BS. Weak!

Bruno_Tibet wrote:The big advantage of Internet forum is that you can post without the proper knowledge and experience without any risk of dying!

Not if you keep licking that screen... knowledge.

The key note about the internet, you really do not know anything about the person on the other end. That is a good thing. Those that do know me, in person, know better than to make comments like the one above. Which stands the same for anyone else out there doing the same to others.

Aircraft Crash & Salvage Fire Fighter... and that aint no 02 in our BA's nor did we ever leave anyone behind either.







Hey Alpynisto, you're mother is calling ya. She's gonna spank yur ass for sniffing up all the Computer Cleaner in the house.

See ya.... ya'll be safe out there now.

cp0915 wrote:I'd like to thank everyone involved in this thread for giving me something to do this slow morning at work. This thread rocks!!!

+1!

The Chief wrote:Aircraft Crash & Salvage Fire Fighter... and that aint no 02 in our BA's nor did we ever leave anyone behind either.

Thanks Chief, you tought me a new acronym today. Very useful indeed, when my rescue plane will crash on Everest, I now know whom to call in order to rescue my rescuers.

The Chief wrote:See ya.... ya'll be safe out there now.

Have a safe and enjoyable day climbing Rick. Don't forget to PM me so we can iron out our Everest expedition plans.

Brad Marshall wrote:

The Chief wrote:See ya.... ya'll be safe out there now.

Have a safe and enjoyable day climbing Rick. Don't forget to PM me so we can iron out our Everest expedition plans.

May I join you? In order to be admitted in the team, I am ready to pay the big cheque to our Chief expedition leader!

Bruno_Tibet wrote:

Brad Marshall wrote:

The Chief wrote:See ya.... ya'll be safe out there now.

Have a safe and enjoyable day climbing Rick. Don't forget to PM me so we can iron out our Everest expedition plans.

May I join you? In order to be admitted in the team, I am ready to pay the big cheque to our Chief expedition leader!

Sure Bruno but since some supplies have long delivery times can you tell me how many oxygen bottles you'll need. The Chief's getting a few extras for the group so keep that in mind. Also, we'll be getting the new TopOut masks.



P.S. They grey bottles in the photo are The Chief's and the yellow ones are for the rest of the team.

Brad Marshall wrote:
P.S. They grey bottles in the photo are The Chief's and the yellow ones are for the rest of the team.

Brad, you made me lose my breathe! Not good before such an important climb...

Brad Marshall wrote:

Bruno_Tibet wrote:

Brad Marshall wrote:

The Chief wrote:See ya.... ya'll be safe out there now.

Have a safe and enjoyable day climbing Rick. Don't forget to PM me so we can iron out our Everest expedition plans.

May I join you? In order to be admitted in the team, I am ready to pay the big cheque to our Chief expedition leader!

Sure Bruno but since some supplies have long delivery times can you tell me how many oxygen bottles you'll need. The Chief's getting a few extras for the group so keep that in mind. Also, we'll be getting the new TopOut masks.



P.S. They grey bottles in the photo are The Chief's and the yellow ones are for the rest of the team.

Chief told me we'll make a speed ascent ballooning style.


Considering that I'll carry 25kg of IT equipment for live dispatch on SP, I think 150 bottles to propel the balloon will be necessary (according to Chief, the same bottles will fit). Plus a dozen bottles per climber and half-dozen for my dog. Am not sure if Chief will bring his dog too. By the way, will the TopOut masks fit the dog?

The Chief wrote:I am attacking the entire Big Mountain Expedition $$ Machine as a whole.

...

Don't do Big Mountains and the boss knows it. Just local stuff where the clients actually have to participate in the entire journey, all of it. The loads are equally distributed and just as heavy as mine etc and they have to actually climb when on technical stuff.

Besides, the Boss does all the Big Stuff and in most cases, with one maybe two clients max.

The Chief wrote:

kevin trieu wrote:You guide in the Sierra, so you calling the Sierra small mountains? Dude! Dude!! That's a slap in the face, punch in the gut and kick in the balls all at once.

Hey, according to some of these Big Mountain Dudes here on SP, Damien, they are just miniscule tits on the land and not worth any ones effort and are easy ass hills to hike up.

So guiding in the bigger ranges is NOT acceptable but guiding in smaller ranges like the Sierra (where you guide) is ok?

Have you attacked your boss when he's guiding on the bigger ranges and/or Everest? So taking one or two clients is ok on bigger ranges?

You are against big mountain expedition but you work and therefore support one yourself. Is this the case of do as I say but not as I do?

Where do you stand on this issue exactly? I'm very confused.

kevin trieu wrote:So guiding in the bigger ranges is NOT acceptable but guiding in smaller ranges like the Sierra (where you guide) is ok?

Have you attacked your boss when he's guiding on the bigger ranges and/or Everest? So taking one or two clients is ok on bigger ranges?

Where do you stand on this issue exactly? I'm very confused.

I posted the answers to your questions above but I will reiterate Kevin.

- In the Sierra, my clients share all the loads equally on the carry up. They take in all their gear, no one carries it for em.

- The group stays together and we work together as a TEAM, throughout the trip. No one gets separated and left behind on their own, NEVER. They either make it as a Team or we turn around as a group if there isn't a second guide to stay with or assist the straggler to descend if necessary. Never is a client ever left alone, period.

- When my Boss goes to the Big Mtns throughout the world, with a client/s, he remains with them the entire journey, 24/7, from start to finish. NEVER does he leave them alone, ever. He does not farm out any responsibility to any Sherpa or Porter. He will only do 2 to 1 ratio and if there are 3 or 4 max, he brings another guide along whose sole purpose/responsibility is to stay and bring up the rear with any potential straggler and to assist if there is any needs or rescue required. NEVER is/are any clients left alone on any trip.

Each service has their protocols. The one I work with has some of the most stringent ones out there. Client Safety is the #1 concern and anything that violates that rule is not nor ever tolerated. The Client's Safety is the only thing that we guarantee. All else is comes after.

As far as the Big Mtn Express goes, my Boss knows how I feel about it and respects my opinion. That is why I hired on and remain with him. I signed up to work with him on the count that I remain locally here in the Eastern Sierra and get as many of the Technical Rock & Ice gigs as possible. Sometimes I go on as a Second Guide when the group size requires it, as was the case with Jack last year. And that is pretty much what I do.

Questions?

The Chief wrote:

kevin trieu wrote:So guiding in the bigger ranges is NOT acceptable but guiding in smaller ranges like the Sierra (where you guide) is ok?

Have you attacked your boss when he's guiding on the bigger ranges and/or Everest? So taking one or two clients is ok on bigger ranges?

Where do you stand on this issue exactly? I'm very confused.

I posted the answers to your questions above but I will reiterate Kevin.

- In the Sierra, my clients share all the loads equally on the carry up. They take in all their gear, no one carries it for em.

- The group stays together and we work together as a TEAM, throughout the trip. No one gets separated and left behind on their own, NEVER. They either make it as a Team or we turn around as a group if there isn't a second guide to stay with or assist the straggler to descend if necessary. Never is a client ever left alone, period.

- When my Boss goes to the Big Mtns throughout the world, with a client/s, he remains with them the entire journey, 24/7, from start to finish. NEVER does he leave them alone, ever. He does not farm out any responsibility to any Sherpa or Porter. He will only do 2 to 1 ratio and if there are 3 or 4 max, he brings another guide along whose sole purpose/responsibility is to stay and bring up the rear with any potential straggler and to assist if there is any needs or rescue required. NEVER is/are any clients left alone on any trip.

Each service has their protocols. The one I work with has some of the most stringent ones out there. Client Safety is the #1 concern and anything that violates that rule is not nor ever tolerated. The Client's Safety is the only thing that we guarantee. All else is comes after.

As far as the Big Mtn Express goes, my Boss knows how I feel about it and respects my opinion. That is why I hired on and remain with him. I signed up to work with him on the count that I remain locally here in the Eastern Sierra and get as many of the Technical Rock & Ice gigs as possible. Sometimes I go on as a Second Guide when the group size requires it, as was the case with Jack last year. And that is pretty much what I do.

Questions?

so the basis of your argument is over clients being left alone, even for a few minutes. the clients should be babysit 100% of the time. as others have mentioned, there are different agreements in these guiding services. it goes from anywhere to securing a permit on an existing team for a solo climber to 100% babysitting.

where exactly in this story do you see that Peter Kinloch was left alone? I see that he was left behind after all means of rescue were exhausted. it is always easier said than done to say that you should stick with your fellow climber until the end. have you tried pulling dead weight at high altitude and on technical terrain? i'm not sure why i'm lecturing you on this. you are a veteran of the game, i'm sure you are aware of this difficult task.

the one service you work for has client service as #1, which guiding service out there has their client safety as #2? you cannot see the fault in your statement? which expedition guiding companies put client safety as their #2 priority?

guiding in the Sierra is not the same as guiding in the Greater Ranges. the logistics are not the same. you cannot use your guiding experience in the Sierra and apply it to this situation and guiding in the Greater Ranges as a whole. I hope you understand this.

what altitude did you start your climb on Elbrus by the way?

Vitaliy M wrote:24/7 with your client and never leaving them..sounds like you guys do a lot more ass whiping than those other guys on big mountains...

Probably depends on the client...