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What is the most convenient way of getting to the base of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey North face? From Torino hut to the Bivouac de la Fourche and then over the Brenva glacier? How have You experienced the crevasses on the upper Brenva glacier? Out of question going solo?

Thank You for Your help!

Samuli
Helsinki, Finland

The Brenva Glacier is the main problem with this mountain nowadays. It's very crevassed so not many people try the mountain. The north face routes definately sound soloable to me as they are rated Alpine D, 55 degrees. I've thought about the peak myself this summer if I can get to it.

Thank for the reply BigLee. The wall itself should not pose a problem if in condition. It's just the approach. I've been actually thinking about the NE couloir instead. That should be more easily approached from the Monzino hut avoiding the icefall just below the upper Brenva glacier.

Samuli Mansikka wrote:What is the most convenient way of getting to the base of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey North face? From Torino hut to the Bivouac de la Fourche and then over the Brenva glacier? How have You experienced the crevasses on the upper Brenva glacier? Out of question going solo?

Thank You for Your help!

Samuli
Helsinki, Finland

Hello Samuli,

the best way is still from the Fourche, trying to leave as early as possible, and making sure the temperature is not too hot, as you're going to traverse a short section under the "useful range" :=) of the Pear seracs . There are few abseils to be done from Col Moore. The upper Brenva plateau may be terribly difficult to traverse in dry conditions, but in early season can be done.

Don't go alone - no way.

The major problem of the Blanche in the last few season is the descent, if you don't plan to continue to the top of MB. The traverse of the Freney glacier and the crossing of the rimaye below the Schneider couloir is now rather difficult and not evident at all, and may involve several hours of route finding. A friend of mine who did the Gervasutti-Boccalatte at the Pt. Gugliermina last year had one hell of a time doing this.

Hope this has been of help.

Luca Signorelli

Luca,

Thank You so much for the extensive info. I'm going solo so might need to rethink if the approach from the Fourche bivouac is problematic. I planned to continue to MB.

Do You have any first hand knowledge about the approach from the Monzino Hut in case I will attempt the couloir mentioned earlier (the one aiming for the left hand side of the face)?

Thank You!

Samuli