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I just posted asking about Hochkonig / Steineres Meer rock climbs. Once we've done a couple of these we're heading to Hohe Tauern. I have a list of routes I'd love to try in an ideal world, but I'm not sure what conditions have been like recently, and how realistic the ambitions are. The list includes north faces like Johannisberg, Hohe Riffl, Weisbachhorn and of course something on Grossglockner like Palavicirinne (spelling?!) or Berglerinne. So, i'd love to know how much snow/ice there is around at the moment, and what state these routes are in. A couple of weeks ago I was told by a local guide that things were pretty snow-free and in bad shape, but since then I gather there's been some new snowfall... Has this made any difference?

I guess if the icy routes are in bad shape then we'll need an alternative wish list. Kaindlgrat looks nice (quite easy!); Studlgrat, of course... er.... I'm running out of ideas! What are people's favourite alpine classics in the area? Lovely routes that are likely to be climb-able if the ice climbs are not attractive; grades PD - D; rock, or mixed or whatever...

I'd really appreciate any up to date conditions reports, and route recommendations.

When we've finished with the main Hohe Tauern we're carrying on south to the Schober mountains. We shouldn't need ideas for this area, as a very kind local man is showing us around.

Thanks!

Johannisberg NO face (I was there last week):
Good conditions, should be fine for a while. Crevasses on the way from Oberwalderhütte are an issue

Schneewinkelkopf N face: The best face (IMHO) besides Mayerlrampe in the region. Mostly ice, but you should be able to get away with neve when going around the ice (ice is more fun though). Goes all year round anyways. Crevasses on the Pasterzenboden when coming from Oberwalderhütte. We skied Pasterze from Schneewinkel to below the parking house last week.
You can combine SWK with Romariwandkopf and Teufelskamp N-Face (100m 50° ice).

Romariswandkopf N-Wand: Still possible

Pallavicini: Dirt slinger, would not waste my time there. Certainly more attractive routes in the region (given the current "shape")

Bergler: Looked OKish

Mayerlrampe: Dimished, but apparently still possible

FKK N face: Dead.

Wiesbachhorn: No idea. The north face is another "used to be"

Riffl: Have heard nothing. I ASSUME mostly blank ice now covered by some snow.

Yes, it has snowed. Not sure how much, above Gastein it was ca. 20cm. I am on Großglockner tomorrow and will let you know. I doubt it was a lot, plus it will be gone soon anyways with these temps.

Some more or less current photos:
I posted a Glockner photo here: http://www.summitpost.org/image/294302/ ... -2007.html
Otherwise check http://www.riesner.at/Weblog/?p=484#more-484 for more or less current Johannisberg NO face photos (should not have changed)
I would go for Johannisberg or Schneewinkelkopf, or Mayerlrampe. Or drive elsewhere (Hochferner, e.g.). When are you down here?

Cheers,
T.A.

Thanks a lot TA, that's really helpful.

I've had unpleasant experiences of the crevasses between Oberwalderhutte and Johannisberg last summer. A bit of a scare. Instead of that, I was wondering about doing Riffl and Jo-Berg in a round trip from Kapruner Torl. Any idea how nasty Oberes Rifflkees is at present? I'm keen to avoid falling into any more slots!

Cheers

Johannisberg looks good. We are down next week on a short road trip. Trying to get a couple of classic easy/medium routes done in each of the following: Steineres Meer, Hohe Tauern, Schober Gruppe. I hope conditions are good....

Dan Bailey wrote:Thanks a lot TA, that's really helpful.

I've had unpleasant experiences of the crevasses between Oberwalderhutte and Johannisberg last summer. A bit of a scare. Instead of that, I was wondering about doing Riffl and Jo-Berg in a round trip from Kapruner Torl. Any idea how nasty Oberes Rifflkees is at present? I'm keen to avoid falling into any more slots!

Cheers

Hm, hard to say. Too little info to comment. Call on the Oberwalderhütte http://www.oberwalderhuette.at/impressum.htm (+43 - (0)4824 - 2546) and ask. I am hesitant to comment.
crevasses are an issue anywhere there, particularly w/o skis. Are you taking skis? You can rent them on Oberwalderhütte, btw.

Have you thought about Zillertaler Alps (OK, not ideal from the location)? Good conditions there at the moment!

T.A.

Hi again!

Sorry for the delayed message but I had to leave for field work immediately after returning from our ski tour. Summa summarum the conditions are as descriped, the new snow has not changed much. However, Hochschober north face looked (from the distance) as if it had quite a bit of new snow, and is in OK condition.

Problem is that the nights are currently regularly too warm as well (unless a cold front moves through which is not what you want out there either), and that is heats up immediately when the sun is out, resulting in stone fall in some routes and potentially weakened snow bridges.
So I would dare to try faces with stone fall danger (Pallavicini, FKK N face, etc).

Großglockner is possible well w/o skis, particularly from the south, if you are up for the zoo.
Johannesberg was climbed and skied A LOT this weekend.

I forgot to mention:
Wiesbachhorn is probably the most beautiful summit in the region, and you could also consider climbing it in combination with Klockerin, perhaps with a stay at Gruberschartenbiwak. I have not done that myself, but this is high on my list.

Here a current photo of Hochschober: http://www.summitpost.org/image/295445/ ... hober.html

Cheers,
Peter

Thanks TA, that's really helpful. We might give Wissbachhorn a try, then studlgrat after the weekend...