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First, my name is Steve, originally from the Netherlands, hence the username. I currently live just outside of D.C. I'm an outdoorsman that has been wanting to make the jump into mountaineering for a long time now. I'm 19, tall, fit and athletic. Went to Switzerland this past summer, did some day hikes, but I'm wanting to go bigger now. So for next summer, I'll be back in Switzerland and want to do either Mont Blanc or the Haute Route (Cham. to Zerm.)

That being said, I have absolutely no experience with glacier climbing, I've never even worn a cramp-on. But, I don't really feel like paying $3000 to climb or hike with a guide, I'd rather spend that on gear. I saw a thread on here earlier about a student wanting to climb MB on the cheap, and that might be great to take part in;

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=49959&highlight=haute

Would it be advisable to do either without a guide? I'll definitely do it with a group of people. And if I were to do the Haute Route, I'd like to do it without stopping in the huts, choosing to camp in a tent instead, is that possible? Can I carry enough food for that many days?

Anyways,
Thanks for any insight shared,
-Steve

PM sent

megla wrote:

lowlands wrote: I have absolutely no experience with glacier climbing, I've never even worn a cramp-on.
-Steve

Get a piolet, learn to use it, get cramps, learn to use them.
As a start.

Borut

That seems logical. Problem being that the last glacier left Washington D.C. a long long time ago. Where could I go to practice? I also have a place to stay in Quebec, Canada. Are there any glaciers or practice areas out there?

I think a mountaineering course in Washington state would serve you well if you can get the time before you go. You could also practice with crampons and an axe in Colorado near Denver on St. Mary's "glacier" beforehand, but it's not a very exciting place to do this in the summer compared to Rainier, Adams, etc. or even Shasta.

Woodie

Woodie Hopper wrote:I think a mountaineering course in Washington state would serve you well if you can get the time before you go. You could also practice with crampons and an axe in Colorado near Denver on St. Mary's "glacier" beforehand, but it's not a very exciting place to do this in the summer compared to Rainier, Adams, etc. or even Shasta.

Woodie

Well I have a month off, starting on the 16th. I had searched for Glacier Climbing Courses only to find they're all in the Northwest, opposite side of the country. Do they conduct their courses in the winter? Do you all know of any good schools?

Logical? Hey...

Well, if you walk around the block with crampons on, it helps giving an idea of things.
Be inventive, learn to put them on and off.
Study the various ways of holding the piolet, fool around with it (at home).

I wasn't being sarcastic, it is indeed a logical approach. If anything it'd at least give me a chance to break my boots in. I'll head out to the local shop one of these days to start looking at equipment.

I had thought the gear would be relatively similar. The HR and MB both have glacier climbing/traversing, correct? At the very least I'd need an Ice Axe and Cramp-ons for both, which is where I made the slight connection.

But I would assume I'd need a warmer jacket for MB.

Haute Route in summer is a hiking trail and should not be mixed with the (skiing) haute route in winter/spring. AFAIR it has no serious glacier travel and doesn't require any ice equipment.
It is well possible to hike the trail with tent; on the other hand a big pack slows you down and you have to be in quite good condition to still enjoy such a camping trip.

Climbing MB for a beginner requires a guide or someone experienced who takes the responsibility. As a first step into mointaineering I wouldn't recommend that.

Martin

Thanks for all of the responses!

For the summer months, what kind of outerwear do you need? I was there over the summer and noticed how it could be hot in the valleys, but close to freezing if you climbed high enough. That being said, I feel as though it isn't cold enough for a down jacket, right? What kind of jacket and pants would you need? I would also expect layering to be important given the temperature fluctuations with altitude. Any comments on the gear I'd need for Mont Blanc in summer?