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Chamonix route conditions

PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:23 am
by vincentvega
Can anyone can give me any information on the latest conditions over in Chamonix at the moment? Or further still, anything that IS in reasonable condition as i know its hot at present and many ice/mixed routes are a no go.
Looking at alpine routes at AD/D/TD.

Were heading out on Thursday and obviously i will check at the OHM when over there.

Is the Frendo still climbable if taking a bivy on the top of the rock section, so the upper snow/ice section is climbed early on?

Any info on the Forbes Arete? Is the descent dangerous at the moment?

Cheers

PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:12 pm
by hamik
Here's some speculation from across the pond, so take it with a grain of salt... but any time the meteo says "poor" or "no snow refreezing up high" avoid routes with steep snow, and especially couloirs. The couple of times I didn't do that I really regretted it. I wouldn't do Frendo unless it cools off a bit, judging from the forecasts.