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advice on alpine rock in the alps

PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 4:21 pm
by fheimer
Going to chamonix and switzerland this summer any recomendations on alpine rock routes.
Up to 5.10 and anywhere between 1000-3000 ft would be a good.

PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 5:28 pm
by Fred Spicker
Some of the best rock routes in the Alps are here: ... -alps.html

Especially check out Badile: ... adile.html

PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 5:39 pm
by Gabriele Roth

alpine rock

PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 6:06 pm
by Koen

for switzerland: check out this site (in German) for good guidebooks. Jurg von Kanel is a guy who introduced 'plaisir' routes to Switzerland. A 'plaisir' route is almost always a well equipped multi-pitch route, up to French grade 6b. Sometimes you need to bring your own protection.

The nature of the routes goes from true sportclimbing routes to alpine routes with 20 or more pitches. The routedescriptions in the guidebooks are in general of very good quality. These books gather the 'best' routes of several locations in Switzerland.

As mentioned above: the areas around Grimsel- and Furkapasses and Uri Alps and Bergell give great climbing on wonderful granite, with plenty of choice.


PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 9:54 pm
by fheimer
thanks for the feedback

starting to narrow things down a bit

What is a plaisir route. Is that a sport route in the alpine???

I think I'm looking for mainly traditionally protected climbs of a classic nature. If you could climb three alpine rock routes in the alps which would they be?

PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:26 am
by Moni
Most of the plaisir routes are sport routes, some very short but a few are longer alpine routes.

My top 3 areas/climbs in Switzerland: and others in that area. and others in that area. and lots of others in that area.

These all have long serious routes.

PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 4:59 pm
by fheimer
thanks moni those climbs all look great.

Anybosu else have three favorites? What about three favorites around Chamonix?