SummitPost.org

Yesterday I showed a Scottish fellow one of the scrambling routes in the Spring Mts west of Vegas. He saw a limestone pinnacle, and was reminded that he had yet to climb "Inaccessible Pinnacle" on the Isle of Skye. He had gotten up to the technical climb on Sgurr Dearg, and stopped. I suggested he get some rock climber friends to belay him on the final "Inaccessible Pinnacle".

Now that I've looked at the pinnacle (which by the way, is very sparsely covered on SP), I wonder how bright that would be. Yet there are lots of references (on the web) to guided tours for that climb. What do you suppose would be the smartest way for this fellow -- who is not a technical climber -- to get to that summit?

Most views show the side one rappels from, but I assume the actual climb is up the opposite side (left in this photo?). This seems to be the "back side" of the fin.I see ratings like grade 5 or "difficult" and don't know how those translate into YDS. I do notice that it is often raining during climbs, which probably ups the difficulty.

There's two routes up, a 'Moderate' the easiest grade in the British system which is rarely used anymore. Thats actually quite a long route, think its two pitches. Then there's one about half the length graded 'Very Difficult' which is two grades up from Mod. I'm afraid I can't help you as to how that converts into any other systems but take it from me they're both easy climbs! There's a bolt to abseil from too.

There are some pictures on SP but they are not attached to anything so hard to search.

Here is one with the route marked by the rope. This looks the same as your second pic.

and another

and the guy says class 4 but it looks like easy fifth class but exposed.

and one from the rapell side

[quote="MoapaPk"]Yesterday I showed a Scottish fellow one of the scrambling routes in the Spring Mts west of Vegas. He saw a limestone pinnacle, and was reminded that he had yet to climb "Inaccessible Pinnacle" on the Isle of Skye. He had gotten up to the technical climb on Sgurr Dearg, and stopped. I suggested he get some rock climber friends to belay him on the final "Inaccessible Pinnacle".

Now that I've looked at the pinnacle (which by the way, is very sparsely covered on SP), I wonder how bright that would be. Yet there are lots of references (on the web) to guided tours for that climb. What do you suppose would be the smartest way for this fellow -- who is not a technical climber -- to get to that summit?

Most non-climbers either hire a guide or, as you suggest, persuade a climber friend to take them up. Although the technical climbing is straightforward, the exposure on both sides is significant. The descent is probably not the place to do a first abseil either.

Thanks all.

The easiest route is graded 'Moderate' which I believe comes in at around 5.1/5.2 YDS. Nothing hard, but very exposed and not the ideal place to experience your first technical rock climb. All routes are trad - no bolts (except for the abseil).

See this link for more info:

Inaccessible Pinnacle

Summitpost also has a page for the Cuillins:

Cuillin Ridge

Nanuls wrote:Summitpost also has a page for the Cuillins:

Cuillin Ridge

Thanks again, this picture was particularly useful.

MoapaPk wrote:(which by the way, is very sparsely covered on SP),.

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=47835

You might find this youtube video of interest, it's quite a good one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03tsZJ38MIM

Usually, the best way to avoid the rain in Skye is to go around the end of May, but it gets quite busy (you can see that in the last of the photo you mentioned) and you'll need to wait in a queue. Unfortunately there's no avoiding the dreaded Scottish midge