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A (New?) Classic on North Eolus

PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 8:33 pm
by Dan Shorb
This is a great line I just had the pleasure of doing. Check it out if you're in the area and have a chance.

http://www.summitpost.org/way-of-the-mountain-couloir/732693

Re: A (New?) Classic on North Eolus

PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:49 pm
by iceisnice
No...not "new"

Re: A (New?) Classic on North Eolus

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 12:44 am
by steppendonk
There is a very nifty video of this route at

Re: A (New?) Classic on North Eolus

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 4:37 pm
by Dan Shorb
iceisnice wrote:No...not "new"


I figured. Has it been Skied? You local guys are doing tons, I'm sure. What's the best place to get info on climbs in there?

Re: A (New?) Classic on North Eolus

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 4:30 pm
by iceisnice
Not sure if its been skied, just know of a few people (myself included) who have climbded it. I'm sure it would be a good ski, especially if you could link it with a descent from the summit and make a good tour out of it. As for info on climbs?.....its all by word of mouth. Not a ton of guys getting way back up there and doing new stuff, but there are a few. Unfortunately, they don't talk much. The NOLS guys back in the day (not so much these days) use to get after stuff hard. Makes it almost impossible to say who did the FA of anything particular. Even people who have said they were the first ones up something don't know for sure. In the end it doesn't matter....if it FELT like an FA then you got the full value....IMO.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:12 pm
by MtnHermit
iceisnice wrote: In the end it doesn't matter....if it FELT like an FA then you got the full value....IMO.

Indeed

Re:

PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 2:36 am
by Dan Shorb
MtnHermit wrote:
iceisnice wrote: In the end it doesn't matter....if it FELT like an FA then you got the full value....IMO.

Indeed


Word. Certainly an awesome day in the mountains.

Re: A (New?) Classic on North Eolus

PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 2:43 pm
by Hotoven
Looks like a fun route, the little video seems to make some of the climb almost verticle. Is that the camra curved lense, or does the route get faily verticle at some points?

Re: A (New?) Classic on North Eolus

PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 4:15 pm
by Dan Shorb
Hotoven wrote:Looks like a fun route, the little video seems to make some of the climb almost verticle. Is that the camra curved lense, or does the route get faily verticle at some points?


That GoPro camera's curved lense does make it look possibly steeper that it was. Its not 'vertical,' but if you fell, you wouldn't be able to stop. It was probably 55 degrees in places. I forgot my other camera in camp, so used that one instead and wish I had regular pics of the route...

Re: A (New?) Classic on North Eolus

PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 4:47 pm
by Pete Castricone
Looks like there's a rock step to negotiate at the top. What is that like?

Re: A Classic on North Eolus

PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 3:27 am
by Dan Shorb
castricone7 wrote:Looks like there's a rock step to negotiate at the top. What is that like?

The whole thing was really chill. Guess it may depend... It had a snow bridge over a skinny moat to cross. Really chill though.