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Spent the day at one of my favorite spots on this planet , 35 miles from the closest humans, rebolting some anchors and climbing some moderate dirty .9's & .10's.

Jamie getting things ready..


Jamie doing the deal...

Is that Glass Mtn back there?

Looks like City of Rocks.

Yes to Glass Mtn.

No to City of the Rocks.

This place has well over 25+ quality multi-pitch Trad & Sport routes, contains a controversial Classic Route and 99% of the time you will have it all to yourselves.

It Rocks!

Here is Ksolem a couple of seasons past enjoying the isolation on a fun and well protected "unknown" .10b....


And also on the first pitch of the controversial 3 P Classic...


One of the entire areas funnest and very well protected (19 bolts for 175 feet) .11b/c is located here.

Oh how I dearly love this Crag.

PS: The tiny version of Black Flies, this time of the year, can indeed make you flee. Bring some super duper strong bug spray. It is only 45 minutes from my house.... damn!

dynamokiev98 wrote:Why call it "controversial" Classic Route?

Because it is....fact.

If indeed know what route it is and it's history, you would clearly know why.

Are we talking about Hair Raiser Buttress out at the Benton Crags?

fatdad wrote:Are we talking about Hair Raiser Buttress out at the Benton Crags?

Not Benton Crags....21 miles NE of Benton Crags on 120.

But yes, HRB!

Tom Higgins and (I think) Vern Clevenger climbed it back in the day with only half the bolts now in place. Given other routes these guys put up elsewhere, it was doable, but you needed to know what you're doing to make it a safe endeavor. The controversy arose when someone essentially doubled the bolts on the first pitch.

The controversy arose when Sushi Al was given permission by Vern to add some bolts to the first pitch 15 years ago. 3 to be exact, the second, fourth and then the sixth. Over the past ten or so years, certain individuals that were not even "locals" took it upon themselves to Chop the added bolts several times after "locals' returned to replace them after there were a slew of folks that whipped off 10 or so feet above the first bolt and then decked onto the boulders below, sustaining different injuries from broken ankles to a skull fracture.

Bottom line, Marty's Mammoth Area Guide Book indicates the added bolts and they have remained for the past 3 years since we found out the chopping culprits and notified them that their last chopping op resulted in a visiting German climber going way right off route looking for the second bolt which is indicated in the GB, taking a long ass whip and busting his head open.

I emailed Tom regarding the issue and asked that he make a public plea to ask the Bay Area culprits to cease any further chopping.

Vern has completely washed his hands of the entire ordeal, Rightly so.

It has been peaceful ever since.

Here is a pic that Tom took of Vern on the final 3rd P of the FA in the Spring of '75...

Thanks again Chief for all the bolt work of late. I think a lot of people don't realize the effort that goes into keeping all these routes safe. The camo'd bolts are awesome. Should be used as an example to LMs that bolts don't have to be intrusive to the surroundings.

tmaxwell wrote:Thanks again Chief for all the bolt work of late. I think a lot of people don't realize the effort that goes into keeping all these routes safe.

The camo'd bolts are awesome. Should be used as an example to LMs that bolts don't have to be intrusive to the surroundings.

Yur very welcome! Glad you had the opportunity to enjoy them.

Exactly and the intent of our hard work. Communicating with the LM's and then having them see our works effort and end results, makes them smile as well as any of the others that may have questions regarding all them "shiney" hangers, suddenly disappear.