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My partner and I will be attempting a Palisade traverse in the second week of August, and would appreciate any current info on the snow/ice in the SW chute of Thunderbolt and the W chute of N. Palisade. Based on the heavy snowpack, we're planning on ax & crampons, but would be happy to leave them at home.

as of 7/17/10: http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum ... #Post78445

Miguel F. and others are doing the traverse the 1st weekend of August and can give up to date info then.

kevin trieu wrote:
Miguel F. and others are doing the traverse the 1st weekend of August and can give up to date info then.

You mean Miguel & 50 other people?

fossana wrote:

kevin trieu wrote:
Miguel F. and others are doing the traverse the 1st weekend of August and can give up to date info then.

You mean Miguel & 50 other people?

Michelle,

Stop exaggerating, it is more like 49.

autoblock wrote:My partner and I will be attempting a Palisade traverse in the second week of August, and would appreciate any current info on the snow/ice in the SW chute of Thunderbolt and the W chute of N. Palisade. Based on the heavy snowpack, we're planning on ax & crampons, but would be happy to leave them at home.

I'd bet that by the 2nd week of August you'll be OK without them, but there should be plenty of TR's between now and then. Last Saturday, we encountered about 600' of snow in SW chute #1. One person in our party of three turned back partway up the chute because he didn't bring crampons. Beyond the first chockstone the snow could be easily avoided. Can't speak for the North Pal chute. Hope that helps, have fun!

autoblock wrote:My partner and I will be attempting a Palisade traverse in the second week of August, and would appreciate any current info on the snow/ice in the SW chute of Thunderbolt and the W chute of N. Palisade. Based on the heavy snowpack, we're planning on ax & crampons, but would be happy to leave them at home.

Check with Vitaliy, he was there this past weekend.

The SW Chute #1 was dry at the top, and looked to be completely dry all the way down to Thunderbolt Pass. Apart from an occasional small bit of snow, the traverse was dry 3 weeks ago and looked even better last weekend.

And for those coming from the North Fork of Big Pine, watch out! The rocks are falling big time right now!

PellucidWombat wrote:The SW Chute #1 was dry at the top, and looked to be completely dry all the way down to Thunderbolt Pass.

Not exactly; see my pix from 7-17 http://www.flickr.com/photos/21042415@N02/sets/72157624406084379/

Are those chains up on the summit block of T-Bolt?

Many thanks to everyone who's responded so far. It's great to get up to date info.

bump

Anyone know if the southwest chute #1 is melted out or still requires crampons + axes?

Did the chute last Monday. With some craftiness and edgy manuevering, you can get past the large snowfield beneath the chockstone with out crampons or an axe, you just have to go in between the snowfield and the edge of the chute. Totally doable.

I did the SW chute (#1) 2 days ago - it's totally doable without ice axe/crampons.

We were going to traverse to starlight but as we reached the summit monolith noticed some nasty weather heading our way fast. We got about halfway down before we got caught in a snowstorm! I think about 3 inches of snow dropped, but we got down without any problems... Little scary though

Good story, nice work, and thanks for the info!

We went up last weekend, and in a group of 3, made it from TB to North Pal. http://punkincrampons.blogspot.com/ has a trip report.

PT