The Chief wrote:Be aware that many if not most Sierra Class 4+ (Clyde Routes etc) Raps are normally 25m raps which require at least a 50 meter cord. This includes all the raps one will find on either side of the PALS, Mendel, Darwin, Evolution Traverse, Russell, Thor, etc.
I am interested when you last "rapped" the SW Face or North Couloir routes of Humphreys, Chad. I did it with a client three weeks ago and they were just as I replaced them five years ago, set up for a standard 50 meter rope (25 meter) as they were originally placed some 40 plus years or so ago.
I did the rappel down Humphreys the last weekend in July this year, the SW slope/NW face.
There was one station just above the higher of the two class 4 portions, immediately at the top of it. I think this may have been lower than a slightly higher station with some old slings, but there was no need to rappel before that point. As recall it was relativly new and purple, easy to see, but perhaps slightly lower than what you had set up.
From the end of that rappel I just needed to swing out to climber's left, and it was a class 2 downclimb about 5-10 feet to the next station (not even class 3 though you wouldn't want to take a standing leap out). Of course I had webbing to set up an additional one if needed, but I knew the class 4 portions were short and would be able to downclimb if absolutely necessary. From the end of the second rappel it was about 5-10 down totally unexposed rock to the station that is unnecessary and at the start of the lower class 4 portion. Since I had the rope out I went ahead and used it to walk down that upper class three bit below the face.
BTW I also used the same 30 m rope on Darwin via the Darwin Glacier last year. Did three rappels n existing slings with plenty of class three downclimbing in between.