SummitPost.org

Hello out there, i just had a request for some advice regarding my plan to do a through hike from shepherd pass to mt whitney. I leave june 18th, with a summit date of june 21st.....i already realize, thre will be some snow, but given the fact that this is a light winter so far.....i just wanted some advice anyone might have on this time frame , and this trailhead ..on any possible complications i might run into, since i am going in June, instead of later in the summer. I do have an ice axe and micro spikes...and very good water proof boots. I heard there is a large snow bank near the top of shepherd pass that is there pretty much year round. Has anyone done this route, and what might i be in for??? Any comments on this would be helpful, thanks.

Yes, the top of Shepherd Pass often has a snow field, though there will probably be a pretty good boot track by the end of June. If you're okay with some class 3 scrambling, you might enjoy going up Wallace Creek and over Russell rather than following the JMT. Or, if you want to bag more peaks, you could go across the Williamson Bowl (ugh!) and across Trojan and Barnard.

Seano is right, don't over worry the snow field at the top, there'll be a helpful boot track across. Just sleep in a little at Anvil Camp (10700' - a really nice spot) and let the snow warm a touch. The axe will provide good psychological security. My advice is pack light cus your first day is 4000' of gain. Then, since you've given yourself lots of time, climb Tyndall via the classic class 3 slab route. Happy Trails.

I've done that route. Went out and back the same route. You will have to get a Whitney permit, which may be an issue, in order to hike out via Portal. It's a nice trip.

albanberg wrote:I've done that route. Went out and back the same route. You will have to get a Whitney permit, which may be an issue, in order to hike out via Portal. It's a nice trip.

This whole exit permit thing has always confused me, because when I did the JMT from Yosemite I did not have any sort of special permit nor was subject to any quota other than the trailhead quota (that I was aware of). Regardless, yosemiteforlife67, if you have issues getting your permit (get them early and you probably will not), send me a PM.

3Deserts wrote:Exit somewhere else I guess, or take an alternate route out via North Fork or something. Or just do it and talk your way out of a fine if you get stopped.

The north fork is not a good way to skip permits -- I was accosted there on a day-hike over Cleaver Col, though the ranger was nice enough not to write me a ticket. Any hike through the Whitney zone is a potential disaster, so you should either get a permit, exit via Cottonwood Pass, or be prepared to dodge the rangers.

EDIT: If you want to talk your way through the Whitney zone, carry a "wag bag"; for easier passage, make sure it's full.

Per the INF Whitney Permit Site:


My trip to Mt Whitney is not starting on the regular Mt Whiney trail; do I need to enter the lottery?

If your trip is overnight and starting on a trail other than the Mt Whitney Trail, NO your trip is not in the lottery, follow the directions for reserving the entry trail you are starting on. This includes the Mountaineers Route up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek and entry points for the John Muir Trail, like Kearsarge Pass.

Scroll down to the 3rd Page.
http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOC ... 347551.pdf

Also, if you didn't actually get a ticket, it at least doesn't seem like a bad way to go.

3Deserts wrote: I'd be shocked if there were rangers on that route.

Well, get shocked!

Dave and his four-six fellow INF NFS Rangers roam throughout the "Whitney Zone" during the "Lottery Permit Season". They are not required to remain solely on either trail. They are required to patrol the entire zone.

I personally ran into Jonathan and Dave on several trips the past seven years, up on the Football Field between Russell and Carilion, over on the other side of Whitney/Russell Col in the Arctic Lakes Basin and over on the westside just below Trail Crest and above Upper Hitchcock. Even ran into Dave coming down from the Cleaver area just last season. You can also count on Simon or Daniel from the NPS to be on the Summit or anywhere on the JMT trail that heads down to Crabtree Meadows and their BC Cabin. The NPS dudes are not as "nice" as the NFS dudes. Trust me.

We did a 14-day loop through the upper Kern basin in late June-early July.

Shepherd's Pass
> Kings-Kern Divide
> Great Western Divide
> Crossed the Kern River
> Wallace Creek > Tulainyo Lake
>Shepherd's Pass

Here is the trip report:
http://www.summitpost.org/exploring-the-upper-kern-basin/468718

In June you will run into a lot of snow, unless the snow pack is light. Be prepared for blazing sun on that snow. Make sure you have a good hat with some protection for your ears and the back of your neck. And plenty of zinc oxide. There's nothing worse than getting fried in the sun and having nowhere to hide. You will be out in the open sun from Shepherd's Pass to Mt. Whitney, with burning sun coming at you from all angles as it bounces off the snow.

The sun cups might be getting pretty big, too, which will slow you down.

The snow banks and cornice below the summit of Shepherd's Pass are steep and can be intimidating if you're not used to such terrain.

You'll pass right through the Bighorn Plateau and below Tawney Point, and experience some of the best vistas in the High Sierra. Take some time hang out there if you've got the time. Here is a panorama from Tawney Point:

http://www.summitpost.org/panorama-from-tawney-point/773516/c-538469

Another great side trip - if you have time - is to head up to Tulainyo Lake, below Mt. Russell. It's one of the highest lakes in North America, although in June it might still be iced over.

I would say that in June you should expect all of your hiking to be like this:


or like this:

wow, that is very good information. i was thinking since it is such a slow year for snow or i should say "light" year , maybe the shepherd trail approach might not have that much snow...but as you all know, you never really can tell, until you get there, right? My approach to the permits, is that the only real concern, is the trail crest quota. i see that for now, for the days i want to go, there is a lot of availability. I really wanted to go in the first week of august, but already the quotas for those days is already booked. i had also debated on doing a round trip from shepherd to whitney to shepherd. Thanks for all the information. Additionally i had thought it would be great if i could get into the williamson bowl area.....??

Williamson Bowl is fantastic, and not as tedious as some make it out to be.

Access to Williamson Bowl and vicinity is now available year round, no restrictions, with a WP attainable at any of the INF Ranger Stations BTW.

On our way back we camped near the Williamson Bowl, which was nice. It is fantastic up there, but it would be slow going if you wanted to go through it. I also climbed the little peak there by the pass. We camped by the little lake up there.

3Deserts wrote:Chief, fair enough. I know they're not restricted to trails, but I figured the likelihood of them getting up towards Cleaver was very low. I stand corrected.

No worries.

A word to the wise regarding the BC WZ INF Rangers.... they all are hearty climbers and enjoy the personal challenges of accessing all of the isolated areas within the WZ. Each and everyone are nice stand up dudes just doing their jobs.