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mbmsfreerider wrote:So on a multipitch route in a crowded area is it considered rude to start on the first pitch of another party is on the third or something?

Also on super topo they always suggest stoppers and peanuts. Is there really a difference or are they just trying to get you to buy two different types?

If you have to ask questions like these I would suggest you climb with someone more experience first, for your own safety. If you don't like this option then just observe what others are doing (assuming they know what they are doing) and use your own judgment.

IMO You have the right idea, but it depends on what the next belay is and if there is room for another party on it. In the case of Munge, I would wait until the last follower in the next party ahead has started climbing before starting up. That's a bit conservative, but it's also polite.

For the easier climbs, a regular set of nuts should be fine -- eg. BD's, ABC Heuvos, WC Rocks. Get some experience with the basics first. Note that the supertopo guide also has recommendations for each climb. Offhand I forget what it says for Munge, but usually it's somewhat overkill. There are a couple of different ways to do Munge, and the gear recs probably assume that you will sew it up and belay on gear, so they are likely to be on the conservative side.

Yosemite granite does have a lot of places where offset-style nuts work well. My personal preference is that I often carry the DMM alloy offsets, the two largest DMM peenuts, and the two largest HB (now made by DMM) brass offsets. The offset nuts take some practice to place .. get someone to show you first.

Just wanted to say that I didn't want my last comment to sound condescending - it was sincere advise.

I did my first outdoor climb (Munginella) with a person who didn't have as much experience as she claimed. I didn't know anything either and it was a bit unnerving to see all her pieces pullout and slide down the rope towards me as she led. I think if you're not sure about basics it's better to go with someone experienced and learn from that person.

As far as when to start - I like to start knowing that there'll be enough room for me at the next belay. It also depends how fast the party ahead of me is moving. If I start too soon, I may have to wait half way up for the person ahead of me to move up.

Of course on some of the popular routes mentioned here (Snake Dike, Royal Arches) there will be people racing and trying to pass you all the time, even on the runout portions of the climb, right Rob?

Munginella is short, 3 pitches, but I think it can be done in 2, so it's not a big deal. Those longer climbs you definitely want to start early.

I didnt realize peenuts were offset. I thought they were just stoppers.

Zzyzx, I understand your intent. I've taken classes and everything I need to know that my placements and anchors are bomber. My mulipitch experience has been local crags so I just wanted to know what was considered courteous.

I'll make sure not to get in over my head. And since I'll be going no earlier than June I'll have at least 4 more months of experience.
My biggest concern at the moment is determinging what gear i really need.

mbmsfreerider wrote:
I live in S.D. actually.

It would be nice not to be in a crowded area but thats probably a long shot in Yosemite. Are super topos gear recommendations accurate?

Heck, this is just my $.02...... why don't you go get in a little "practice" placing gear at Taquitz rock???
you can drive there in a hour or so.


SuperTopo.... ????? sometimes their "gear" selections are a little bit different from mine.

You need a standard rack..... cams, stoppers, nuts..... from tiny to 5inch, add some runners, and some 1" nylon webbing (that you can tie knots with)...... so you can add to the "tat" when you need to bail from trees, etc.

have fun.