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divnamite wrote:I guess YMS charges too much money? Mark, which route are you doing on el cap? I assume the Nose?

Yep, the Nose. The reason why I did not want to hire YMS is because they do not let you lead and a large sum of the payment goes to Delaware North for doing pretty much no work. Then yes the price is part of the reason. Its not worth it to pay some 3500 to jug 2/3rds a mile of rope. If I am going to pay that much I want to actually climb the thing, not ascend a rope next to it. There are other guides who charge less and actually allow you to climb the thing instead of jug the whole thing which is why I am not interested in them.

Would you consider climbing something other than El Cap or is that the climb you're gunning for? If not, would you consider coming up to Canada to climb the Chief in Squamish, BC. It's a little shorter but anyone can guide you up since we don't have those "only these firms can guide" rules up here. My friend guides this climb all the time and you could lead every pitch if you want. He's ACMG and IFMGA certified and has several individual climbers come up each summer who use him as their belay slave and to get them through the difficult parts.

http://canadianmountainguide.com/about.htm

Go to supertopo and search around in the forums. You'll find what you're looking for.

kiwiw wrote:if you can free climb mid 5.10 what gear do you need for the nose? a set of lightweight aiders and a adjustable daisy? I really want to do the smallest amount of aid possible. do it in 2 days. how feasible is that for the everyman? also, is any special gear needed? like a slightly beefed up crag rack to BD #4 would be fine right?

I think you need couple of good friends to lend you their racks!

Give Steve Schneider a buzz- he might be able to provide what you're looking for. We bailed off the Nose last October on about 5 pitches of his ropes (thanks Steve!).

http://www.blondeambitionguiding.com/

MarkDurford wrote:

divnamite wrote:I guess YMS charges too much money? Mark, which route are you doing on el cap? I assume the Nose?

Yep, the Nose. The reason why I did not want to hire YMS is because they do not let you lead and a large sum of the payment goes to Delaware North for doing pretty much no work. Then yes the price is part of the reason. Its not worth it to pay some 3500 to jug 2/3rds a mile of rope. If I am going to pay that much I want to actually climb the thing, not ascend a rope next to it. There are other guides who charge less and actually allow you to climb the thing instead of jug the whole thing which is why I am not interested in them.

Good for you, go for it! if you can't find a guide, maybe just for a partner? if you can lead the whole thing, i'm sure you can find a big wall apsirant to go with you. Good luck and have fun!!!

Try to contact Hans Florine, he may be able to point you in the right direction.

Diggler wrote:Give Steve Schneider a buzz- he might be able to provide what you're looking for. We bailed off the Nose last October on about 5 pitches of his ropes (thanks Steve!).

http://www.blondeambitionguiding.com/

Sorry to hear that, if I may ask why did you have to bail?

MarkDurford wrote:

Diggler wrote:Give Steve Schneider a buzz- he might be able to provide what you're looking for. We bailed off the Nose last October on about 5 pitches of his ropes (thanks Steve!).

http://www.blondeambitionguiding.com/

Sorry to hear that, if I may ask why did you have to bail?

Half way up the climb, a big storm moved in & dumped a ton of snow/sleet. We waited for the better part of the day, then decided to get out of there. There are bomber bolted belay/rap' stations all the way up/down the route, facilitating an easy retreat.