Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 6:02 pmOops, typo on my part. Yes, the warmer it gets, the increased chances of a wet slide, which is what happened last weekend.
Snow level seemed ~8500-9000' and melting fast. There was running water in the high meadow in Horse Creek Canyon, and the unnamed lake at 9800' was in the process of melting out.
Snow-camped at 9800' above the unnamed lake, and headed up to the peak early the next morning, with clear skies.
The east couloir was about half melted out, but the west couloir was nicely filled in.
I'd guess it was fairly sustained ~40-ish degrees. Descended from the couloir exit to the first obvious gully and headed up. There was still snow in places, so I may have made some non-class 3 moves
Fantastic views from the top.
Descended the third class ledges to the east couloir. Greeted four people who were climbing it. Have to come back for the North Arete sometime.
Full set here.