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U Notch was the shizzle today! I've been wanting to climb this thing for years! Take your pick of blue ice, firm snow, post-holing or rock. Great climb...and we dayhiked it. *phew*

Bump for Temple Crag approach conditions. Curious about the snow levels at the toe, crampons/ice axe still?

pmorash wrote:Bump for Temple Crag approach conditions. Curious about the snow levels at the toe, crampons/ice axe still?

Having just been there yesterday - snow firm in AM til about noon and it is cupping. For what little is left accessing Temple Crag, axe and crampons would be overkill.

Thanks Deb!

Looking to do SunRibbon next week, it still looks like there's a fair bit leading up to the start of that route. A little more hemming and hawing I guess on whether to crampon or not.

I've heard the snow approach can be a little hairy w/o gear, I know that can be relative to someones experience but it can also be because that snow just doesn't get any sun! Guessing this pic was taken late afternoon in which case there wouldn't be much direct sunlight on that patch of snow...ever!

Deb wrote:U Notch was the shizzle today! I've been wanting to climb this thing for years! Take your pick of blue ice, firm snow, post-holing or rock. Great climb...and we dayhiked it. *phew*

Wow. That's a big day. I did the Moon Goddess car to car once and thought I was a stud.

Pic was taken abt 6AM and personally I wouldn't bring crampons. I've done the approach with snow to climb Moon Goddess before; not a big deal. Descending Contac Pass can be messy but again...I wouldn't bother with 'pons.

pmorash wrote:Thanks Deb!

Looking to do SunRibbon next week, it still looks like there's a fair bit leading up to the start of that route. A little more hemming and hawing I guess on whether to crampon or not.

I've heard the snow approach can be a little hairy w/o gear, I know that can be relative to someones experience but it can also be because that snow just doesn't get any sun! Guessing this pic was taken late afternoon in which case there wouldn't be much direct sunlight on that patch of snow...ever!

I would bring crampons for the snow approach to the start of sun ribbon.

Daria wrote:

pmorash wrote:Thanks Deb!

Looking to do SunRibbon next week, it still looks like there's a fair bit leading up to the start of that route. A little more hemming and hawing I guess on whether to crampon or not.

I've heard the snow approach can be a little hairy w/o gear, I know that can be relative to someones experience but it can also be because that snow just doesn't get any sun! Guessing this pic was taken late afternoon in which case there wouldn't be much direct sunlight on that patch of snow...ever!

I would bring crampons for the snow approach to the start of sun ribbon.

Pussy

In Deb's photo, is contact pass visible on the left there ? any info on the descent to south fork BP creek from the pass, scree, trail , etc.
Thanks

Deb wrote:Pic was taken abt 6AM and personally I wouldn't bring crampons. I've done the approach with snow to climb Moon Goddess before; not a big deal. Descending Contac Pass can be messy but again...I wouldn't bother with 'pons.

Snow approaches to Moon Goddess and Sun Ribbon are totally different. Moon Goddess and Venusian Blind share the approach (fairly mellow snow, that could be icy in the morning). Snow approaching Sun Ribbon was a lot steeper and longer. Friend and I brought crampons for approach before Sun Ribbon and were both really happy to have an axe too. We tossed them down to the boulder field from the base of the route and picked them up on the way back. If snow is icy in the morning (which is likely) you will want crampons there, unless you are ok ascending icy snow slope up to 35-40 degrees with a rock in your hand for purchase.

Thanks to all!

Funny...easy to see the sun is in your friend's face so of course it would be an early day pic, duh! I was thinking it was setting just out of frame to the top right but that would create a whole different light at that orientation.

By the way, old climbing buddy told me they didn't need crampons for Sun Ribbon approach or anywhere else around there last weekend. It was really warm and snow was soft. It could change any time though, so watch temps before you go.

Vitaliy M. wrote:By the way, old climbing buddy told me they didn't need crampons for Sun Ribbon approach or anywhere else around there last weekend. It was really warm and snow was soft. It could change any time though, so watch temps before you go.

hmmmmmmmph

Deb wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote:By the way, old climbing buddy told me they didn't need crampons for Sun Ribbon approach or anywhere else around there last weekend. It was really warm and snow was soft. It could change any time though, so watch temps before you go.

hmmmmmmmph

?

We did Sun Ribbon last Saturday, we were on the snow at about 7am and I was sure happy to have crampons AND an axe! The snow was hard (like too hard to kick steps) and pretty steep!
I would go along with Vitaliy M and say between 35-40 degrees in sections.

There were some traces of previous steps and some cupping as mentioned but not enough that I would have felt comfortable w/o the tools.

Guessing there is about 200-300' of gain on snow so again...pretty nice to have the tools!