SummitPost.org

I guess we can give it a shot .. between supertopo's grade inflation and Bob's sandbagging maybe we could handle it after all

OK, so I finally managed to tag the north summit on this thing last weekend. The supertopo shows several routes from the notch, as follows :

1. "5.7" crack / knobs to the right
2. 5.8 offwidth crack straight up, joins route #1
3. "loose" 5.7 off to the left

I chickened out last year, but led route #1 this year. Jeebus, that felt hard -- I thought I was gonna deck and my partner couldn't do it at all We did see some folks head up route #3 .. they said it was a bit grainy, but not so bad.

I rapped off the north summit with two 60m ropes (ours and and another party's), but would like to go back for the rest of the crest (north of the north summit) at some point. What is everyone's preference on getting from the notch to the north summit ?

It was a few years ago now but I seem to remember working broken cracks on the right wall for a couple moves to a ledge where you could then traverse a couple steps to get into the flaring crack on the left. The broken cracks were the hardest parts but 5.7 seemed about right. I think the flaring crack on the left might have been a little grainy so maybe thats your #3 route

From the notch I always take that crack that diagonals up and left from the cushy ledge. It's ~5.7. http://tinyurl.com/2e3bquo

Then up the easier chimney to the N summit.

fossana wrote:From the notch I always take that crack that diagonals up and left from the cushy ledge. It's ~5.7. http://tinyurl.com/2e3bquo

Then up the easier chimney to the N summit.

fossna's pic shows her climbing exactly the cracks I was referring to as being on the right. Once you get to that big ledge about two moves above her head then you can get into the left slanting crack I mentioned. I think she and I are saying the same thing. The "hand cracks" were the crux but again 5.7 seemed about right. I remember them being a little sustained though for placing gear and I ran out the moves to the ledge so a "deck" like rhyang mentioned would have been possible if you popped!

Sounds to me like two votes for route #1. I got pumped out and fell while leading the second pitch of Overhang Bypass (5.7) in Jtree, so I should not be surprised at the consensus

btw I saw that pic (and the ones of soloing Matthes in a snowstorm) on MP last week, and all I have to say is Wow, Wow, Wow

+3 for #1

I also thought #1 was pretty tough for a Sierra 5.7; felt kinda of like a Josh 5.7. I guess I need to get back up to the MC for another try and get ready to the up coming Josh season

Congrats Rob on getting the MC and your other ticks for this summer, WoHoo! That's a proud Sierra tick list

I did the ow to the left of the finger crack-hand traverse thing shown- I thought it to be the funnest/burliest part of the climb (one of the few places where you get to actually get IN the climb & get down & dirty). I want to say I was able to protect it with a #3 Camalot, & maybe some medium size pieces. It's only maybe 10 or 15' long. Approach shoes might even make it easier, as it's sorta wide. I enjoyed it.

I kinda figured you would be the contrarian Dirk But the approach shoe idea sounds good for that one ..

I also did the traversing hand crack thing in Fossana's photo. Definitely harder than anything else on the route, but no harder than 5.7. Overhang Bypass is WAY harder. I placed a couple pieces and there was no risk of decking.

Rob...you should go to the Gunks sometime. You'll get plenty of practice placing gear from strenuous positions.

For me, part of the problem is that the hard pitch comes at the end of the traverse .. my left side is permanently weaker as a result of spinal cord injury. Last year we spent more time mucking about with the rope on the ridge, and by the time we got to the north summit pitch my left hand was cramping up, and my left leg was fatigued & wobbly. I was getting clonus in my lower leg (involuntary vibration). In general I have a lot less upper body strength post-accident.

This time we soloed the ridge, so I felt fresher by the time I started up that pitch. I managed to start up and place some pro, and then downclimbed. There was a stuck nut in the crack higher up, and I managed to clip that after a couple tries. It was a pretty tough pitch for me, and maybe after I got to the top of that section I should have rigged a directional for my partner so that he didn't feel like he was going to swing. Luckily my hand didn't start cramping until after I rapped off.

Anyway, perhaps I will try route #3 next time and see how that goes.