Guyzo wrote:ksolem wrote:All of this begs the question: which is more lame, chiselling a hold to make a move easier or hammering off a feature to make a climb harder..?
Wow. Now my head is spinning.
Both.
Both.
The hammering on Insomnia was pointless, IMO. Didn't make it much harder. And then they did it to Wangerbanger.
The Man That Fell to Earth: Can you say "sandbag"? Valhalla and TMTFTE are both 11a? Somebody bumped their head, maybe when they fell off TMTFTE.
I don't think I ever got it clear on just how the chiseled hold came about on TMTFTE. This much I do know though, Tim Powell would never, ever, have done that. I wish I knew the real story behind it. At least I can't recall knowing it. Next time I see TP I'll try to ask him.
While we're on the subject, anybody know the unflattering name that "The Chisholm Trail" was known by at one time? Once again, not something I would expect any of those guys to have done.