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Does anyone know if this chute is ever snow free or if it can be climbed next to the snow? Would be nice to leave crampons/axe in the car. Thinking about doing it this weekend.

Thank you!


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I did that route up Merriam several years ago in an "average" snow year on about this date. I did encounter some snow but it was not insurmountable. I had on trail runners but did have my ice ax (no crampons) which was handy in a couple of spots. Approach was from the Royce Lakes side. I do not have any first hand report of conditions now.

Scott M. wrote:I did that route up Merriam several years ago in an "average" snow year on about this date. I did encounter some snow but it was not insurmountable. I had on trail runners but did have my ice ax (no crampons) which was handy in a couple of spots. Approach was from the Royce Lakes side. I do not have any first hand report of conditions now.

Thanks for that info! Given the snowpack this year and relatively cool temps this summer, I'm guessing that chute will be fully snow filled.

Here's a photo from June 2014:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tuCReMjMqDATZkfw7

As you can see with a little less snow (later in the season) there will probably be a dry path on the sides. Also, in my recollection this was quite low angle, and easy. Obviously, conditions are of the essence.

That pic is perfect!! Thank you!

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Climbed it without touching snow in 2012. A MUCH lower snow year, here's my buddy climbing the chute.