SummitPost.org

Any one been up to BCS in the last couple of days? We were planning on doing the North Arete this weekend. Just wondering how much snow on the approach and the ridge.

Definitely curious about what you find out .. thinking of the NE Ridge again, or maybe Abbot's N couloir .. dusting off my Sierra alpine goals now that summer is here

goldenhopper wrote:I was up in that area (Rock Creek) last weekend. Not sure if this is BCS or Dade?

Here's a shot from mid-August 2007, on the approach from the Mosquito Flats trailhead -



fyi BCS is on the left.

1000Pks wrote:.... Airy move to back off the top, too much for me without a rope.

You just need to get your BCS disco groove on

BCS... the N. arete is clear.. but the NE cl 4 route still has quite a bit of snow. Snow from Gem on.
There was less snow on BCS in April than there is now...but it's melting quick

graham wrote:

1000Pks wrote:.... Airy move to back off the top, too much for me without a rope.

You just need to get your BCS disco groove on

The summit block was actually not a bad solo in climbing shoes.

Thanks for the conditions report dusty !

Rolling out to BCS this afternoon. Conditions and trip report will be filed Monday night. Going to give the North Arete a shot.

I climbed the NE ridge on Sunday. Snow was basically avoidable for most of the NE ridge, but once we got onto the North Arete there was a lot of snow to climb over/around. We joined the route too low, so we got to do the last few pitches of the N. Arete. On the steeper sections most of the snow was gone, but don't plan on doing the entire route in rock shoes. We cramponed up in the morning and climbed the route in mountaineering boots.

Did Dade yesterday. Some pics of that area:

http://kathywing.smugmug.com/gallery/8712529_VukqG#575884895_FFbFG

no photo labels yet

Amazing photos, Kathy.

wingding wrote:Did Dade yesterday. Some pics of that area:

http://kathywing.smugmug.com/gallery/8712529_VukqG#575884895_FFbFG

no photo labels yet

I love your informative photos and "human" captions. Methinks there is still a wee bit of snow.

a couple hours ago...

We ran up on 6-27-09...

Got a late start, but the friendly folks ahead of us on the 4th pitch let us pass on through as they took a break and we got back to Bishop in time for a Whiskey Creek Works Burger.

The snow is still there all the way from Gem Lakes, but it's getting thin and you'll posthole into the talus as it softens up. A few small patches of snow on the route itself, but nothing you can't easily avoid. An ice axe is a good idea for the descent if you're coming down late in the day. Mosquitoes are still minimal, but hatching fast! Bring your bug juice.

Here are the pix!
http://picasaweb.google.com/tradmonkey/ ... pireJune09

Enjoy.
Adam

What a beautiful trip Kathy, thanks for sharing the great photos.

tradmonkey wrote:We ran up on 6-27-09...

Got a late start, but the friendly folks ahead of us on the 4th pitch let us pass on through as they took a break and we got back to Bishop in time for a Whiskey Creek Works Burger.

The snow is still there all the way from Gem Lakes, but it's getting thin and you'll posthole into the talus as it softens up. A few small patches of snow on the route itself, but nothing you can't easily avoid. An ice axe is a good idea for the descent if you're coming down late in the day. Mosquitoes are still minimal, but hatching fast! Bring your bug juice.

Here are the pix!
http://picasaweb.google.com/tradmonkey/ ... pireJune09

Enjoy.
Adam

Looks great ! From what I've read, the 5.8 pitch (offwidth / stemming big flakes) isn't as harsh as it first appears. What did you all think ?