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I'm heading up towards the end of Nov. I've been up there in late fall, but not winter. Anyone whos climbed it in winter before: what can I expect in terms of snow level/temp/conditions. Also what kind of pro did you take.

thanks

The East Face of Middle Pal. is already covered with quite a bit of snow. Conditions now through the rest of winter will make it a full-on technical winter climb. Many pitches of mixed snow and rock climbing. There is little in the way of pro, so belays will be old-school stances and snow anchors. Expect deep, unconsolidated snow over slabby rock. Full-value!

nice.. sounds like a fluke or 2 may be in order. im sure ill bring a couple nuts and hexes

Flukes and bollards in unconsolidated powder...YUMMY!!!

in terms of guidebook ratings would this still be considered a class 3 climb?

connollyck wrote:in terms of guidebook ratings would this still be considered a class 3 climb?

It is but with snow, it becomes a lot scarier. Another issue is finding the correct route. It's very easy to end up on class 4, which I believe most of the chutes on the face are. Class 4 + ice/snow + loose rock

routefinding and ending up on something shady is my biggest concern.

we're going to bring alpine tools to aid in climbing and a 60m rope in case we make some kind of mistake and have to rap down

This is a great pic from Bob. Secor's chute is supposed to be the correct (class 3) one. It just doesn't look all that obvious when you are there since the angle is quite different once you're on the glacier.

i thought secors chute was class 4 and the main chute was class 3??

I'm pretty sure Secor's chute is class 3. Not sure about the main chute but as it seems steeper, it might very well be class 4. I think the page on the NE face has some good info.

Only went up there once, but my recall: Secor's chute was class 3, but to avoid the loose rock, it is easier to climb on the class 4 sides. The loose rock will be covered with snow, but that sure is a steep chute for crampons, and there are virtually no anchors.

Gary Schenk wrote:Luciano, is your picture from the west side?

Should be the view from the NE.

Edit: Perhaps NNE is more accurate...

96avs01 wrote:

Gary Schenk wrote:Luciano, is your picture from the west side?

Should be the view from the NE.

Edit: Perhaps NNE is more accurate...

Not my pic but NE would be most accurate I think.

i cant wait. this is going to be so fun. anyone want to come with? Weekend of Nov 20th

Have you considered the approach? The snow will probably require snowshoes, and much more effort and time than is required without snow.